That s the sound of either an air leak, like a bad seal. Or possibly I think this is the reason you L maybe set wrong....that is if it did not have a funky idle prior to work like this.
That wasn't the answer I was looking for. That is something that I have never dove into before and not sure I want to either. Probably why the guy sold it to me for 100.00
Most people won't know what crank seals are let alone the symptoms of bad ones. Unless a dealer told him it had bad seals or he was knowledgeable, and then most of us here would disclose that if known and most like us but there are many out there that won't :-(
I have an 032 that I bought recently from a guy that claimed to have worked or had a small engine shop. Said he just couldn't pull it or get it started and thought maybe a carb. Messing with it I am pretty sure it's the coil. Which on these is not an easy find. Did he know it was the coil? ???? Do I care...not really since I am in it $30. It has a serviceable old wide nose medium mount bar that I can use. And I can sell the part for more than I have in it should I choose to part it out.
I hear ya bud yeah, like you said for 30.00 and you get the bar it really doesn't matter much. I am into this now for more than expected but now feel like I can't give up on it. It starts right up and runs good but with the erratic idle it makes me worry that it will at some point lean out and detonate.
I have never split a case. But the guys who do say it's easy and don't take long. I have no doubt with a splitter that I could. I just have had no reason up to this point to learn. If I were you I'd make a tool or buy one and split it.
On the 1125 series I always replace the impulse and fuel line. I also usually do crank seals as well since I strip down older saws to take a look at the seals/bearings. You dont need to split the case to replace the seals...few good threads on here or other forums explaining procedure. I've split quite a few cases now and like Clem said, it isnt too bad if the saw is in decent shape. Lots of time needed for dirty or worn stuff tho (blocking case halves, sealants, stubborn bearing seats, etc).
I will replace the impulse line and check the intake as well before I move on to the seal. Thanks for your input.
I would replace the intake as well. Pressure and vac test on these does not take very long. Do you have stihl shop handy? With the intake kits they have its pretty quick.
The dealer is about 30 miles from me but I am going by there tomorrow and could stop in. What kit are you referring to ?
My stihl shop has bolt on blocks that replace the carb to pressure and vac test. My dealer just lets me go use his but Im sure if you do the prep work your dealer wouldnt charge you to terribly much to do it.
reelcrzy I have a block off plate I made for 038, and the mity vac. Maybe just mod that and you're in business to test it. Bring it over, we'll know if it's crank seals or something else.
Sounds good. Thanks for the offer. I pulled it apart tonight and checked the intake. It looks fine to me as does the impulse and fuel line. I am going to replace tomorrow if the dealer has in stock while it's apart. If not I will put it back together with what I have now. Let me know when is good for you I already know what beer to bring
