Well, I pulled the clutch off yesterday and found that the plastic oiler feed tube , plastic end cap on the pump ,and the plastic drive plug that holds the oiler spring are all melted pretty bad. Also found that the chain brake band was missing. So I will replace the pump and all lines, clutch and brake band. I am trying to keep the cost down on this saw as it is a back up saw for me. With this in mind on parts like this, do you feel it would be ok to use aftermarket parts ? Thanks
I'd use aftermarket. But don't Think your going to find aftermarket brake band? Maybe they have one but I don't think so. Used parts off ebay is probably best bet
Ok , so I received the new flywheel today and am getting ready to try to get the old one off. I see they sell a stihl piston stop online but have seen that a couple people had problems using this tool and having it break off inside the cyl. What do you all use to stop the piston from moving when removing the flywheel ? Do you use the starter rope method through the plug hole ? Also would you use the flywheel removal tool they sell, or just use a brass/soft metal hammer and tap tap tap..or should I just leave the flywheel with one broken fin on it. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks
I've always just used rope through the plug hole. Nothing to break then. Pretty straight forward description of the process: How to Remove a Chainsaw Flywheel Without Special Tools
Looks like this is the way to go. I can do this now and not have to order anything else. Thanks for the reply.
I have a piston stop for husky I think But not sure I will use it. I have heard people poking holes in pistons with them. So when I need to remove one I will use starter rope.
Flywheel has been replaced. Used the rope method and had it done in less than 10 mins. Now I am just waiting for the chain brake and oil pump to come in so I can try once again to get this thing in good working order. We shall see. Thanks
Yes , left the nut on the end of the shaft to protect threads and while holding the saw up by holding the flywheel gave it a few quick taps until it broke loose. By holding the saw off the bench while holding the flywheel the weight of the saw is hanging off the flywheel and this helps it break free. I also pulled he muffler so I could make sure that the rope didn't try to exit the exhaust when inserted in cyl.
Yeah , I used the impact to remove the clutch drum but thought I needed to make sure that the flywheel didn't move during removal so used the rope.
Well , I got everything back together including a new carb and fuel filter. The problem I am running into is when I start the saw and let it warm up , I get the idle set good and the L set so it seems good also. The H is still set rich until I get a tach on it. I then go and make a few test cuts and after making the cuts the saw now idles high. After a min. I rev it up a couple times and the idles drops. Make a cut and it is back to high idle. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be going on here ? Carb still needs to be adjusted better or something else. I checked the fuel line in the tank and it looks fine. I also cleaned the tank vent and blew it out with the compressor. Thanks Jim
Is there anything binding on the linkages anywhere, including the handle? Fuel line rubbing it or anything?
Funny you mention that. I was just sitting here thinking and came up with the same thought. I will check it out when I get out of work tonight. Thanks
Does the 034 have the choke in the air filter (like the 038)? Check that choke position is staying put, the springs in the master choke lever setup get weak as does the air filter flap choker ma jigger. [Now I'm thinking as I type]... saw gets hot in cut, idles up higher, saw cools down, idles down. Sounds like fuel is getting blocked when things warm up? Did you replace impulse line?
I did not replace the impulse line. I just fired it up without the cover and air filter. All linkage looks ok. When I first started the saw it would idle and run nice. After about 3 mins it started to idle high again. I also noticed that if I change the angle of the saw for a min it will start to idle high again change the angle back the other way and it would idle down. Is this a sign of faulty impulse line ?
