Just how much ground needs to be removed? Is this something you can do with a pulaski? Sounds like a couple of methods could have been tried already. Work safe and get after it.
Yep. You said an inch or few. I wouldn’t even notice that. Once wood is stacked it doesn’t slide on the bottom very easy at all. Until I hit 6” on a four foot pallet I wouldn’t even bother thinking about it. Me being not unnaturally tall don’t like adding any extra height to my pallets. That’s less wood I can stack on them, more room the wood takes up, more pallets required. It’s that Yankee thriftiness you may have heard of.
Well, heck, if you just intuitively build the stack vertical, overcoming the slope problem as you go then YOU win the prize! Cheers! Have you ever had a stack fall over? I have, lol. But I think that was tree movement, it was between trees. How do you stack with pallets? Do you just butt them up one against the other, like, 3 pallets long (12ft) or does each stand alone? Do you fill like it a tower, do you crib the stacks on the ends, do you attach braces? Oh wait... are you the man who uses pallets such as three butted against one another and then you made long L's out of 2x6 or 2x8 and stick those in the ends so that you then have a vertical piece to support the stack ends? I may have the wrong member but I am thinking that is you. A couple of years ago maybe, I saw pics of stacks like this on here and it seemed to be an ideal, cheap stacking method and I bought some 2x8s and made a couple of stacks and it worked. But I didn't do it on a side slope, lol.
Yeah I made those. One broke tho. The gusset was old dried out 1/2” plywood from the barn. Nails tore right through it. Same with the 2x8”s. Old form lumber for concrete steps from looong ago. Fresh wood, 3/4” ply and screws instead of hanger nails would hold up. Only made four of them. I usually crib the ends but the braces are much faster. Retired mason so stacking stuff is second nature. Not that I like it tho
In my case it would be very easy because I use mostly logs to stack on. Uphill log would be a small one and the downhill log would be large in order to make the stack level. One might be a 4"log and the other a 12" log. Pine works well for this. The problem with moving dirt is then water will keep moving dirt and can wash away the ground you are stacking on.
Another option is to use the same principle as when you build a Holzhausen and run a row (or more) perpendicular to the splits to cant the stack inwards. Run a row of splits perpendicular to your stacks at the bottom and then keep building your stack upwards. This will raise the lower portion of the stack and level out the downward slope of the stack.
One of my stacks goes across the slope like the OP stated. I built up the lower front sidewith rocks, bricks, blocks as piers below a log/4x4. The upper end sets on paver stones with a support log/4x4 on top. I’d do the same thing running it down the hill. My thoughts were that digging down the high side would allow snow and rain to get to the bottom row. And inhibit the airflow I wanted under the stack. I got really interested in stacked rock walls and building them a few years ago. I try to use some of that knowledge when I build my stacks. Gravity pulls straight down. Try to not have any slope that gravity is pulling your split/stack or stone in any direction other than straight down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ill shim the pallets, runners etc to level and stack. My problem is i often stack too high and sometimes gravity overcomes my shim job.
