That's exactly how I've been stacking for the last few years. Except I don't have the nice rubber roofing. Simple and it works. Three or four of those gets me thru a season usually. I can throw pallets away or saplings after they've rotted on the ground. I've put the pallets up on blocks to try to make them last longer but that's a pain in the rass here.
Well I have to build another one. But thanks for the tips. T-post cost $5 apiece and 4 cinder blocks was like $4.50. the pounder cost more than than all that combined but happy to have it. It will be used again.
This is one of our permanent racks. This one has 1.25 cords in it. 4 pallets, 2- 4x4 under pallets on cement cap block, 2x6 frame on the ends, 2x4 frame on top and 2 pieces of metal roofing.
I have height limits, so I do not use pallets. I got a load of 3 inch crusher run, that is low in fines and stack on it. Consistent surface, water runs off well, and it is very easy to walk on. Some of The bottom piece shows a hint of moisture, if do I set them aside for a few weeks. Far better than mud or grass, and I just use my backpack blower once in a while to remove dust and loose bark etc.
I'm using two 12ft treated boards for the base. It might be overkill but I had those extra from a project. But now I have to go buy more. Anyway, the point is, that rack I built as show is 12x2x4 or 3/4 of a cord.
Also, I do tarp the upper 3rd of the stack in the winter I expect to burn. Lot's of thoughts on this but I live in the PNW and we have --- ummmmm -- wet winters. So I fall into the camp I like my wood dry when I fetch it and place it into the fire box. Dealing with tarps sux but if you want to have a simple, mobile wood rack and you want to cover them -- they''re a necessary evil in my view.
I have a cord of cherry, a cord of cedar (not shown) and a cord and a half of douglas fir. I suspect another 1/4 of that dreaded pine.
Thanks for taking the time to buzz on out to Chaz's work and take that photo. I don't know why I didn't think of t-posts before. I kept thinking how great it'd be if I could just insert a metal pole into the ground to serve as an end piece to my stacks. They are often mobile so if I could pull it out and resuse it later it'd be great.
Its Chaz by the way lol. Don't worry about that. And your welcome. It may be pricey to begin with but you can use them tomtom and time again. Other than the tapper to put them in, I think he also got something think a post remover. The farmers will know what I am talking about.
Oh I fixed that. I know it's Chaz. Typo. Yeah, I'm using cut end pieces of lumber in like 4 or 5 cinder blocks per side --- so I just said enough is enough -- I want something I can tap into the ground and not have this balancing, flimsy act to go through on an uneven lawn. These things work great.
Oh I can appreciate what you said about uneven ground. Where we had them last winter we had an ice heave at the end of one row. Even though we had them there the t post were at an angle and two out of 3 rolls fell. We live on the side of a hill and nothing is flat.
Much of what you see in those pictures and much more of what you can't see are from 3 large cedar trees that fell in the back yard. Man, they put in huge divots in the lawn (really weeds that I mow) and I've decided it's not worth it to rototill it. So I've got this noodle backyard and only so many places to store wood.
Yep. T-posts are winners. I just wanted to thank you again for taking the time to go snap a picture. You have helped this ruralish suburbanite out.
It seems racks built above ground using cinder blocks and timber for the base and perhaps more timber or t-posts are incredibly durable, don't give way to rot and decay, and keep your wood elevated off the ground. The only thing that could improve this situation is to have an open air roof... but that's where I don't mind throwing a top tarp over it the season I plan to burn it.
