Don't we have results that prove the concept already? 30+% to 21% in 60 days in the fall is pretty much all the results you need, or am I wrong?
I think you have a great idea here. No reason to take a defensive stance when the results prove you know what you are talking about.
I'm honestly asking, not getting defensive at all. You said "we will know the truth soon". Is that indicating you don't believe the data presented already, or that you need additional evidence before you will believe I am "telling the truth "?
I read some results posted a few weeks back and was sold on the idea then. It's a good idea, and if you scan this thread, there is a bit of hostility which is out of place when the results are there now and will be conclusive by thanksgiving. I'm not disagreeing with your method or the proof.
Does the wood have to be newly split to check the moisture with a mm. Not sure if this question belongs here? And pretty novice. I know.
To get an accurate reading, yes you'll want to check on a fresh split face. The outside of a split dries quickly, the interior is what you're really concerned with
Fear not, this thread has taken many detours along the way. We seem to find our way back to the path eventually. And yes as mentioned above a fresh split face is best. A MM is actually just a meter checking the electrical resistance of the wood. Because it is the water trapped in the wood that decreases the measure of resistance, and because that wood escapes from the outside in, testing the exterior give you a lower measurement than the true moisture content of the split. Or the above may be overly complicated, and all you need to know is to test in the middle of a freshly split chunk. Look for under 20% for best burning, under 25% will burn but will need more air and you should check your flu more often, over 25% is considered a NO-GO by most here but if the choice is that or freeze...you will struggle but it should burn, above 30% is pretty much all smoke and no heat. Remember, the higher the MC the more often you need to check and clean your chimney / flue.
Getting down to 20% is the pinch area for a stove like the NC30. These become a ballistic heat machine when down to the 15% range. Likely similar for a lot of the newer non cat stoves.
You are a brand new burner? My first season I checked ever two weeks until I felt confident, then every 4, now I check every other month if the roof is free of snow. If I know snow is coming ill check it just incase I can't get up there for a couple of months. Learn how to sweep your flu your self and you will save Texas $$$$$$$
If you have a Class A chimney, you would be able to sustain a chimney fire for at least 10 minutes. No one would ever like to say that, but that's what it was designed for.
Augie I've been following the thread and it got me thinking, can you get larger rounds down to the teens in the kiln too? Rounds that normally would be too big to completely dry out just with air drying.
The larger the split, the longer it will take, but given enough time/heat I am sure that you can get any size down to the teens.
