Small engine Gurus- Troubleshoot question ?????

Ya ,,,, I don't recall seeing H/L screws but I haven't really looked it over close yet. I cleaned the tank and bowl a month ago and sea foamed it. Ran it awhile no load . I needed to weld up a part today and no go under load .Same symptoms . I honestly thought it was a simple fuel problem and an easy cure with the cleaning .
I'm gonna check for H/L screws tomorrow and governor spring . If that doesn't cure the problem I'll just get a new carb .

 

I agree. A guy can go through a lot of Seafoam for the cost of an AM carb on eBay. They're probably under $20

 

Yep.
Just walked down to shop to get engine serial #. Looked up the carb # on Honda site. OEM is $72. Haven't looked for AM yet .Found some videos on YT . Seems the main jet in bowl is a frequent culprit and ethanol is bad joojoo.I think IIRC this summer once I was in a pinch to get a project done ran outta gas and threw a little eth in it .
I'll pull it apart tomorrow and clean up the jets and idle stop. Check the gov spring. I'll spend another hour and if its a no go I'll order another carb. This welder has saved me $50K+ in my shop over the last 18 years. This is its first hiccup. My times worth a bunch and I'm not objectionable to throwing some coin at it.

 

I have a feeling that the main has the green monster in it. Some kind of brass corrosion. A torch tip cleaner might clean it out

 

There's an AM carb on eBay in Florida for $12. Might be worth a try while (if) you have to wait for an oem one.

I'd also check your oil level. Maybe unplug the low oil sensor and try it. I know you said it would run wide open no load, but those sensors aren't all perfect. And the added vibrations while under load might make it act up. I've had to unplug mine on my power trowel before to finish a slab. The oil level wasn't really what I'd call low. Maybe 1/8" down

 

Oil was actually first thing I checked the first time it suddenly shutdown . I may try unplugging low oil sensor before the jet clean.

There is 2 carb options for my motor family but only one for my serial #. Unfortunately I can't find an AM for my part #. The other part # has AM options all around $15. Like I said this tool owes me nothing. I'll throw $72 at it any day.

 

I changed the tank, carb and coil on mine. Then the coil. Then adjusted the valves.

Would run fine until hot, then just die.

It was the $2 spark plug after all of that.

Change it.

 

I've wrenched on a fair amount of Honda GXs. Never had one that would close the choke when it died? Are you getting a backfire through the carb? Have you ever adjusted the valves? The under load problem makes me think coil/ignition. Valve clearance should be in neighborhood of .006 intake and .008 exhaust. Very easy to adjust.

I agree with drf...change the plug. #RN9YC/BRP6ES. If you have a spark tester, put it inline and duplicate the issue...see if there is interruption. Honda coils are generally pretty stout, but they can go bad. I would think the carb should be fine unless gas went sour in it. Sometimes no amount of cleaning and flushing will get them going again once tainted.

Edit: What is serial for engine?

 

There is only one screw...it adjusts the low speed fuel, by the time you are over 50% RPM, its mainly the main jet controlling the fuel mixture.
Someone mentioned an 1/8 turn on the fuel screw...they have a limiter cap on them. I can't tell you what yours is gonna look like, some are metal, some are plastic...but the caps can be CAREFULLY removed. There is usually a splined brass head on the screw under the cap. Often times a pencil torch will be just enough heat to be able to get the cap off without ruining anything else. You will want to do this with the carb removed and drained obviously. Once the cap is off the screw can be turned with a small flatblade screwdriver. Pull the screw out when you clean the carb, that will allow you to blow through the low speed passages. Be careful when you take the screw out, Honda fuel screws usually have a small spring and a teeny tiny washer and O-ring on the end of them. If it comes out without any of the 3, then they are still stuck in the carb...it takes a tiny pick to get hold of the washer/o-ring. If they are stuck to the carb good you can opt to leave them, but I have been bit by that decision in the past because they were gone when I went to reassemble. They are really tiny, you won't find anything remotely close at the hardware or anywhere else...pretty much have to buy a whole rebuilt kit to get 'em.
Once the cap is off you will have full adjustability of the screw then too...

 

Kicking it around in my head all day at work I kept going back to this.
Kept thinking it wouldn't start ,idle,and WOT with bunked up jets/carb as nice as it does .
Grabed a plug on way home from work thinking this will save a chit-ton of hassle if it's the problem.
$2.64 is the magic # !
BINGO !
Thanks Guys!

 

BINGO

 

BINGO

 

Make sure it isn't the low oil shutdown shutting it off. From the sound of it, I'd bet that's what it is too.

Either deactivate it, or add oil and see if it changes (unless low, you won't need to add much).

 

I was thinking the low oil cutoff switch could be the culprit. If it has enough oil, See what unplugging it does.

 

Even better! But I've yet to see a plug die like that. They either work or don't.

 

Ran 2 full rods . Engine never blinked. Was lucky if I could burn 1/5 of a rod before it would die on the old plug.
I had my doubts also but a plug was a 2 minute fix vs. half hour jackn around with the carb.
Thanks again guys for the plug idea.