Because I'll burn it this winter. It's been dead for a while. I don't have that much storage outside.
Guess not with all the toys you been showing! What do you burn in? My stove refuses to burn oak until it's 2-3 y/o. Haven't even had any luck with dead stuff. Dead locust sometimes if the bark is gone.
No idea. Don't have a meter. Thought about getting one, but have heard mixed reviews about them. The tree has been dead for a while. It'll be sitting in the basement for a while as I have other hard wood that will get burned before I get to that stuff. First in, first burn type of system.
Here's a couple pics of my wood burner. It's an add on furnace. I bought it a while back ago from Menards for around $1k and it's worked well for me. Voglezang (sp?) Norseman 2500 is what it is. Was not fun getting down 20 flights of stairs either! All the stuff I cut has been down for years! The timber is just loaded with hardwood that's been down a long time, and the outside edges are starting to pitch. Normally I get out in the fall or spring time and can get some cut and split, and thrown into a pile to sit over summer, but I've been super busy this year and just haven't had time to get out in the timber. I had a shed to get done to house my splitter and that tool all of my time, so I'm cutting and splitting a lot later than normal this year, but it's working out well.
Christmas Eve and yesterday were quite productive. 90% sugar maple and the rest is ash! Cut up a 18 inch maple with the new square ground chain, crazy how much the 461 comes alive
I'm looking at all that equipment you have for cutting and hauling and splitting firewood,,,,, and you don't have the one cheapest piece of equipment there is that will confirm that that wood is too wet to burn (efficiently). lol
Here a couple pics of my Christmas find, three truckloads. Next are a couple pics of previously shown stacks filled in some more from a days splitting and stacking.
Do you have a good one that you recommend? I've read about a few meters, but have heard mixed reviews about them. I've asked a couple locals, and they laughed at the idea of using a meter. I've only thought about getting one just to have a guide of where things were at.........yet if you measure on the end or the middle, ect. you get different results.
They all work about the same, moisture meters are pretty simple devices, all they do is measure the electrical resistance between the two metal prongs, but used properly that will give you a better idea of what the internal moisture content of a split of wood is then a person can guess just bylooking at it or feeling it. Generally even the cheapest ones will measure that resistance the same as an expensive ones. However, some are more sturdily built, which is important considering they may be out in the weather and you'll often have to put a fair amount of force on them shoving those prongs into hard wood. The important thing to remember is that the surface of a split or round of wood will dry very quickly compared to the internal portion, and if you just stick the meter into the surface you will likely get a false low reading. So when trying to get a valid measurement you want to measure the wood's internal moisture not the outside surface, to do that you have to split the wood open and immediately take a reading on it's freshly exposed surface. If you have wood that's been cut, split and stacked for 3 years a moisture meter will be nothing more than an instrument of curiosity, but if you are planning on burning wood that you just finished cutting and splitting a moisture meter should be considered and essential tool. Remember you are shooting for < 20% moisture content internally (not the exposed surface of the wood) if you want wood that will burn efficiently. I'm guessing that you'll find that internal reading on that wood that you just finished cutting and splitting will be > 25% and possibly > 30% moisture content. I'll also venture to guess that those local guys you've been talking to who laugh at the idea of using a moisture meter frequently burn wood that is > 30% moisture content.
Well said. It takes the mystery out of why a piece with cracked end still burns and smolders for an hour. I have two different meters, one from Stihl, and another which the name is escaping me. i would say 75-80% of the time I can tell by weight and appearance. Some of the standing dead trees I have taken down lately have surprised me. Another good tool for the arsenal.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-MMD4E-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2 General Tools Pin-Type Digital Moisture Meter with LCD Display-MMD4E - The Home Depot Shop General Tools & Instruments Digital Multimeter at Lowes.com
Agreed, well said Lumber-Jack. I would only add that moisture meters work best when the wood has an internal temperature of 70F. I dont get to silly about it if its above freezing outside but if Im curious about how a stack is doing and its the middle of winter I will bring a split into the house and then split it and test it the next morning.
FYI , found out the meter showing at lowe's, is a new model and The Pin cap contains a resistor and doubles as calibration checker. Shop General Tools & Instruments Digital Multimeter at Lowes.com This is the proper manual ,Lowe's has the wrong manual on their site http://www.generaltools.com/product...pe/manuals/pdf/MMD3E-Manual_EFS_GT_021015.pdf
That's the one I bought after joining this club, It seems to work well and I'm happy with it. Cost around 30 bucks.
Been cutting a few times around the house and on my neighbor's property that was just logged this fall. Had some stuff from last winter to clean up after the power company went though. This is a pic from the last 2 weeks cutting. stack of rounds about 35' long and 4' high Giving the new 241 a workout