It all depends on your use and what you want. I like them to pull through the wood without needing much help if you're trying to race 3 cut like Matt said. Those change overs are where the race is won or lost. I need to finish up the chain for the guys in Iowa that are doing it the week after the gtg. I got started filing on it but haven't had time to do anything else to it.
i see a lot of guys go to heavy on the rakers ,that makes a jerky grabby chain in my opinion and cuts slower in my opinion and is harder on the saw ,a chain can still self feed without going crazy on the rakers ,stock off the roll i have not been touching them till the 3rd or 4th sharpening cutting softwoods ,i was always taught 2 swipes with a file right off the roll ,that ends up being grabby in my opinion with a longer bar
Get the cutters working efficiently and then use the rakers to set the saws RPM's in the happy zone? At least that's the way I'm doing it these days. Sharpening other peoples' chain tho I have to have some kind of standard spec, as it is not practical to test run every loop before delivery. I do ask what the powerhead is tho, especially for my pro customers. I will use different raker heights for a 24" loop on a 660 vs a 361.
around here you do not see a 24 inch bar on a 660 ,a 60cc saw will normally have them ,a 32 or 36 is more common on a 90cc saw ,a 28-32 is common on 70-75 cc here ,i still have not figured out the short bar on a big powerhead back east ,i have cut hardwood here when it's wet it cuts easy ,maybe firewood guys wait for it to dry and it gets harder is the reasoning ,it gets pretty hard once dry from what i have seen
Seasoned firewood around here is logs that have been stacked in their lot for a year or more. I have seen 660s running around with 20s on them. And 7 pin rims. We have some species that are common here that are noticeably tougher to cut, namely the pin oaks and shagbark hickory. Black locust isn't exactly easy cutting either but usually the chain is trashed from all the grit in the bark before you notice how hard the saw a working. But all in all, there is nothing here a 460 wearing 24-28" wouldn't dispatch easily. Every once in awhile you run across a 5 ft monster tho.
Update: The chain that made those chips was my fastest chain in Iowa this last weekend.. We raced in cottonwood.. I used it on a ported 562 and the 9010.. Only saw that could beat it was a piped 064... I had to put a little force on it though..
The one thing that I would like to learn at this GTG at Swags, is how to file a race chain. For firewood, I do alright. But for our Cant races? I don't have a clue..
Adam and Derrick have really stepped up their performance game in the last year or 2... Chains and saws alike... Hard to keep up with them boys... Even had a couple alky saws there in Iowa...
I run an 18" bar on my 660 with an 8 pin sprocket. Same setup as my 460. Given the chance I'd swap the 660 for another 460. I got it thinking more power would mean a quicker cut but it's slower than my 460 and burns more fuel.
I just use a 8 pin. It's hard enough to get the chain on and off with a 8 pin. I use Oregon CL chain and I grind it with very sharp angles. You have to let the chain and the weight of the saw do the feeding. It is a cookie cutter. Some of you have seen it before?