I did come across that style but didn't look for any videos. That may be what I go with. Thx for the link.
I've been reloading off and on since about 1995. A friend of mine taught me some good tricks to find a good starting point. It's a loading density test. Has anyone ever done this? #1) You seat a bullet in a unprimed case. #2) Weigh the case with the bullet. Write that down. #3) Use a syringe and inject water into the primer hole till all the water totally fills the case capacity and starts coming out of the primer pocket. Dab excess water with a q-tip. #4) Weight the case again. #5) Now subtract the weight of the empty case to the case full of water. #6) This is your 100% loading density. #7) If I remember correctly non-magnums like 87% to 93% and magnums like 95% to 100%. #8) Do some math to see what weights get you in the percentages that you are looking for. Water is used because it is pretty much the exact volume and density of powder. #10) Once you figure out the weightw that you are looking for as far a loading density look in your reloading book and see where the loads fall as far as weight in grains. That is the powder that you should start with. I hope that I didn't make this too complicated and everyone can understand. I tried this for my .300 Weatherby and it was right on. I just tried other powder just to see and other powders were not as accurate.
In 40+ years of reloading, I have never heard of this. An easier way would be to to the Lee load manual. Look up the round you want to load. The first power in the list is the most accurate powder tester for that load and bullet weight. Lee has done all the work for you!
I understand the theory of measuring case capacity, but many manuals have that information for most all cases, just as Frank pointed out.
I understand. This is just one trick that my buddy showed me. I think he's been reloading since the 60's. It's just a way to find what type of powder and grains to start off with. I've used it once and it does work. But like everyone else I go right to the book. He picked up this trick way back when he first started when reloading. When that art and the science wasn't so refined as it is today.
Been loading since the 80's. Currently using a Dillon Square Deal for 9 mill and .40S&W. Using a Dillon 650 with case feeder for .45 ACP and .223. Using a good ol' RCBS Rock Chucker for .308W and .300WM. Loading a LOT of .45ACP and .223 for 3-gun, and more .45ACP for IDPA. Having fun.
Started reloading in the late 90's as decent accurate ammo for my Lee Enfield SMLE .303 was scarce and expensive. Really enjoyed developing the loads, custom tailored to that rifle. I have the Parker-Hale micrometer aperture sights on it and went from 8-10" groups at 100 yards with mil-surplus to 1.5" groups from what I was making. Also bought dies for my Swedish Mauser in 6.5 but that one needs to go to the gunsmith. And .308 for my Spanish Mauser, 5.56 for my original Colt AR H-bar. The AR is a great candidate for reloading as the high twist rate 1 in 7 barrel really likes 69 grain projectiles. Life here has really been getting in the way of my love of range time and most of my reloading equip has been in a box for years now. Can't wait to get up north...
