Recommendations on Existing Wood Stove

600F or a little over that during the active burning. It ramps down after an hour or so till it's just coals left. Thats 18" above the stove on the pipe. 5' obove that at the thimble going out the basement wall is 350 or so. The stove top is usully about 750 or a bit higher.

I'm thinking when it gets cold again a full load of locust or oak will be good to do some checking on using the damper to see if I get some longer times.

I'm not very diligent on tracking times and logging wood loads. I may have to try to be more scientific about this to get the best performance.

 

Is that 600 surface, or internal pipe temp?

 

Surface of single wall pipe up to the double wall that goes through the wall. I don't have any probes that go into the pipes, just magnet and IR gun.

 

I agree, you are about go to the next heating level by using that damper...if that 600* temp is surface temp, then the internal temp is roughly double that...way too high! Half your heat is going up the chimney in that scenario!
If that is internal temp, then it is still a bit high (assuming that temp sample was taken with the air turned down) and there are still gains to be had by using the damper for sure.

 

Yeah that is way to high you are wasting tons of heat up the stack. Close the damper. You want to be running 250 or 300

 

I thought those temps were high, but not enough certainty to say much.


Our stovetop is running @ ~550°F, stack temp is @ ~330°F

Living room is 81°F

 

Again, THANKS all for the info. Just what I've seen today so far on a half load of kinda punky Ash, I've seen the burn time double with the temperatures down by 150 or so with more even heat. I don't have to worry about my stove room temperature (usually at 95+) because it's in the basement and is essentially the furnace. The forced air furnace blower is sucking the hot air off the ceiling by using the opened up return duct near the stove and blowing it throughout the house via the furnace ducts.

I'm looking forward to checking this out on a really cold day with a nice dry load of White Oak, Honey Locust, and Ironwood (Hop).

by the way, Great Thread Steve and all the knowledgable chimney experts that contributed. I hope others may learn some valuable tricks from this too. Or am I the only non-Brainiac DIY guy out here trying to lower my heating bills...

Maybe a good primer for DIYer's on Draft for Dummies in plain english would be a good pin-up. I've read a lot about installations, chimney heights, inside vs. outside, reverse drafts, and related stuff, but the realization of over draft (but not to the degree of being a safety issue) was not really mentioned in relation to tube stoves in a manner that I caught on to. I guess seeing things from many different perspectives and some of the comments in this thread just hit me in the correct way. I had never really thought about using the damper to throttle down even more than the stove's "low" setting since installation instructions don't even advocate putting one in the first place.

 

That's great. My only concern is you really need to be careful about pulling air out of the stove room like that. Once the fire dies down it could reverse the draft pulling co out of the stove.

 

never gets that cool and if I do shut it down, I control it and empty it before that point. We also have CO and CO2 monitors tied into the fire alarm system.

 

And the baffle board is pushed all the way back, so that all the smoke has to go forward, past the tubes?

 

At the back of the stove there are fire bricks (not shown in the one diagram) but yes it appears that the board pushes the smoke forward past the tubes.

 

I don't need a stove but after just looking at how beautiful your stove is it makes me want one.Just so I can look at it.

 

Thanks Rich L

The stove was a great investment.