Questions about my Oiler on my Stihl 461

Stihl 044 Oiler Mod


This link will show the internal parts and the part that is just turning now is the one with the two O-rings on it.

 

Even if you broke that corner stop piece off, that shouldn't affect operation. Just find the spot where it uses the most oil for a tank of gas. If you can't get it to use more than half a tank of oil per tank of gas, you may want to modify it like huskihl shows in that post. I did my 362 and now it oils a 32" bar just fine.

 

I think I paid around 20 bucks for the bolt and piston out of R model pumps and it works just fine, took about 15 minutes. I've done it for people who buy the half wrap models and wanna run a longer bar.

 

You're right! I went and looked again. What I thought was the pin, was the stop shoulder as best I can tell trying to shine a light and look through the hole in the bottom of the saw.
Whether I have done more damage then that, I am not sure. Hopefully not and just need to turn it back to it's highest output. Hopefully, I haven't cracked the pump housing. I don't think I have. Does the R model have a higher output pump then the standard 461?

 

Yep. The R model pump flows more oil, but to upgrade all you need to buy is the bolt and piston out of the R model pump and put it in yours. It's easy.

 

So, looking at your picture of the pump set on max, if I just turn the slot for the screwdriver cross wise at a 90 degree the length of the saw, I should be there, I am pretty sure.

 

Sounds right, run it and find out.

 

If you wanna upgrade your pump to the HO parts all you need is

Piston - 1128-647-0602

Bolt - 1128-647-4803

 

Thanks, I may need to join that site so I blow up those pictures a little bit. But I read it, and get the idea.

 

Thanks, will that same piston and bolt work in the 362 and the 462?

 

Thanks guys, for helping to clear that up.

 

I bought a used 461 that had that ear broken off just like yours. I located the control bolt in the same position Ryan posted above and left it. You just need to make sure you’re not 180° off

The 462 is different. The 462, 500, and the 661 have the pin you can drive in. But I believe the 361, 362, and 461 are the same. They may not be the same exact pump, but the 461 pump fits the 361 and 362

 

362 yes.

462 no.

But a 462 pumps a good bit on max so it wouldn't be needed anyway.

 

Your right, I don't think I have my 462 set on max, I had to back it off a little bit.

I think maybe my 461 is oiling enough, maybe. However, I went to the Stihl dealer today with the numbers for the parts, but they were not much help on ordering parts. I wonder if the bunch I talked to knew half as much as I do.

 

Yes, I believe I have it on max now, so will just leave it that way, until I determine if I need to increase oil flow with new parts or mods for sure.

 

Maybe I am ok on the 461 and 32" bar. I ran a tank of fuel through it, today, and used nearly a tank of bar oil, and the chain looks wet. I believe I was just borrowing trouble. I thought I was seeing a pin like on my 462 and wanted to get max flow for the longer bar, but I guess I already had max flow for the stock pump. Another lesson learned.
However, I really do need to consider a mod to the 362 as it's always been stingy with the bar oil. I have been running a thinner mix in it, all winter, which helps but it's more expensive, since I have been using a winter grade bar oil.

 

If you want to get max bar life make sure you always have a sharp chain and that the rakers are set to the correct level.

 

Yes, good point. I am pretty good at sharpening a chain, at this point. And I always do the rakers after every sharpening, to keep them at the best level.

 

Well, following up, I decided to leave my 461 as is, and decided to install the new pump, (Thank You, Sawmikaze) into my 362 which has always been very stingy with oil. All went well on the swap, in the end. I did run into a couple of issues, not the fault of the new pump. I took every thing out, and cleaned everything up good, bolted the new pump in, no problem, until I tried to install the clutch drum. I was struggling to get in on, and I knew to make sure I was getting the notch located over the arm on the screw drive, and finally figured it out, that I had accidentally engaged the brake, so I got past that and got down to the installing the little E-clip. And I discovered that it was very tight, like everything was too high by a few thousands, not leaving me the full groove to install the clip.

I took every thing apart down to the pump a couple of times, trying to figure out if I was doing anything wrong, and confirmed that the new pump was not the problem. It's just that when everything stacked up, I was a few thousands tall, crowding the E-clip. And frankly, trying to remember back when I first took it apart, I think the E-clip was very tight to start with, unlike my other saws. So, in the end, I decided to take a few thousands off of the clutch drum, and I also thinned the washer just slightly, to gain a little there, and was able to gain enough room to install the E-Clip.

I figured the parts I modified were not probably that expensive, so went that way. I think the E-Clip was tight to start with. Anyway, I fired it up, and the pump was pumping oil really good, so I cleaned the bar and put bar and chain back on. The saw works great. I went and burnt up a tank of gas, cleaning out fence rows, and felled about 20 trees with some limbing including, also. I kept an eye on the oil tank and the saw used almost a full tank of oil on one tank of gas. And it's oiling the bar like never before. Probably oiling a little more then needed, so I think I will back the adjustment off of max, just a little, and see how it does. But it looks like it's going to be just fine, and a whole lot better then stock.

 

I'm glad you got it in buddy.

Your bar and chain won't complain they have too much oil...