Production Woodstock IS

Anyone checked the cat deflector plate? Top was covered in white dust with slight blistering and the under side was blistered and had small stalagtites/mites depending on how you look at the plate.

 

Hollywood , I had mine out a little over a week ago and it looked nothing like yours.
Have you considered reaching out to Lorin with your pictures?

 

Plan on it. Just lifted the hood to look around. The stuff chipped off fairly easily.

 

Is the steel plate pitted?

 

Nope. It is more like there is a build up. Reminds me of a bad blistered sun burn.

 

Mine has a heat signature where the cat's heat hits the plate but no other marks.

 

It looks like paint blisters but any paint on it should have been gone long ago. The max surface temp I've had it was 650* on the flue plate.

 

The cat temps would have been well over 1000 deg at times

 

Yup. This was the reading when I had the 650* temp up on the flue plate.

 

I don't think I have ever had mine that hot on the stove front. I've been to 700 a few times but I'd knock it down because it was burning too hot too fast.

 

I had draft set here when I got these Temps. Wen I saw how hot it was I closed it until the Temps started to drop.

 

I rarely ever have the damper open past 1/4 when the stove is cruising. I open it to 3/4 or full to burn down the
coals or reload but thats it.

 

I saw a little bit of blistering but I wasn't concerned. I kind of figured with that kind of outrageous heat in one small area crazy stuff will happen.

 

I set it at that because it was going to be in the low single digits that night. Was looking for a ☆little☆ more heat.

 

Hehehehe The brand name on the thermometer is "Inferno" and you have it almost past the extreme end of the red zone. That right there is funny.

The bottom of the radiator is likely to suffer pretty quickly compared to anyplace else on the stove just because of the extreme temperatures combined with any excess oxygen added by the cat. air feed. Steel deteriorates rapidly as the temp. increases and that is the hottest part of the stove, excepting perhaps the combustor itself. And the combustor and the bottom shield below the combustor are stainless steel, which holds up far, far better than carbon steel at elevated temperatures.

Brian

 

More updates:
Had coals to relight when I got home around 3:40. So, from 5:50 to 3:40 on a loose, mostly filled load. Took about two hours to get the stove cruising. I had the cat engaged and the air 100%. All of a sudden, I had furnace secondaries and the cat temp climbed. After that I was able to shut it down more, but I wanted to cook the paint and warm up the house.

It does seem to need a fuller box to work well.

We will see how she does tonight.

 

This definitely is not a " throw a split in every hour" kind of stove. Load the stove as if doing an 8 + hour burn and set the primary to your desired temperature. It is designed to run low and slow. Most of us are setting it between notch 2 and 5. If you want your glass to stay clean keep it at or above 4.

 

That's what I was thinking too Brian. I kind of think of the radiator in the IS as similar to the sacrificial anode in an electric hot water tank. They made the radiator heavy and thick to take a lot of abuse from the extremely high heat (and oxygen) coming off the cat to protect the cook top. I don't think the Progress Hybrid has a similar radiator because its cook top is cast iron?

When I was at Woodstock this past spring, someone mentioned taking out the radiator on rare occasions when they wanted higher temps on the cook top. But I don't think the cook top assembly was designed for a steady diet of that.

 

I can see the top lid and the burners turning cherry red and the lid possibly warping if abused enough.

 

Would love to be able to see the cat whengaged the bypass plate looks like this. If a 1/4 in steel plate is orange what does human hair thickness stainless steel look like?