Potential problem with new stove

As are probably aware you have an air leak somewhere. It could just be me, but that was one of the reasons I went with Woodstock soapstone. I met the people there they all seem to have a clue. Some of the intellectual workers I've met at other places, I would not want building an appliance for me that's job is to contain a fire inside my home. I have trust issues

I also have over 22 feet of Class A chimney, and excellent draft. My insurance company is a pain also, they made me build a Chase around the Class A pipe.

I would be extremely cautious using that Appliance to heat my home. Wish you the best of luck in getting the situation resolved.

 

Can you verify you are shutting the primary air all the way down?

 

I'm wondering if he doesn't have one of those stoves mentioned "elsewhere" that have 10,000 churned out a year, and are always perfect, and any problem is the user himself, draft, chimney, gaskets etc.

After burning for a few years now, I also believe it would hurt nothing to have a damper in place. Even if you don't require it daily, or at all until there's an emergency. I've read so much that these epa stoves don't need one, but anyone who puts a thimble worth of thought into it should realize the stove needs a certain draft spec, not a certain chimney height.

 

^^^^Yup!^^^^

Install the key damper in the pipe already and then get back to us.

 

Are you able to block off the air intake? I know that on the bottom of my IS I can stick a magnet to further restrict air beyond the factory limitations. I also vaguely remember someone using foil or foil tape or something to that effect on a NC30 maybe?

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It's never too late to give the stove a good cleanout and inspect the inside welds to make sure they are continuous where they should be. Had one like that (incomplete welds) a few years back.
Contacted the stove manufacturer, took pics, had a local welder complete them, sent bill to company for full reimbursement. Done.

Honestly, don't know if it would have affected the burn or not, but it would have always been there in the back of my mind.

 

I’m guessing it’s a PE stove which is the only noncat I know of with a controlled secondary air system. Regardless, if the door and glass seals are good then you’re dealing with the bungalow syndrome. The engineering for that stove requires clean (meaning hot on a noncat) burns on a very short chimney in a warm climate. Then you put the stove on a tall chimney in a cold climate and the much stronger draft means that way more intake air is being sucked into the stove through the intake system.

You need a damper or some other way to reduce intake air if you want to slow the stove down.

 

Also had a hunch it was a PE stove, but I don't know. If so, 825 is not "far too hot" for the stove top temp. I wouldn't keep it rolling at that temp but just saying it's not totally outta the ordinary and it's not going to melt the stove. shut the air down and it cools down fairly quick.

 

I would have the salesman explain what is going to happen if it's fully loaded and you loose power ? A fan should be a option not a necessity.

 

Doesn't enviro use a single air control as well?

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I know my buddy's Boston 1700 is a single control unit. He describes it to be a bit hard to throttle back when using super dooper wood

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They all have a single air control but most provide full throttle secondary air all the time. Only PE, maybe another(?), have an internal linkage that reduces secondary air as well as primary air as you control the single air control.

 

I guess I was getting at it didn't have a damper/bypass control. But I guess tube stoves don't need a bypass. Please forgive me rambling on lol

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You have one or both of two simple problems.

1) an air leak
2) too much draft.

Use a smoke source to find the first and add a damper to take the second. The damper should be right at the beginning of the stove pipe and should be easily removable for cleaning of the stove pipe and chimney. They don’t violate and codes that I know of so I don’t see how an insurance company can refuse coverage.

 

Insurance companies can choose whatever reason they want to cancel your policy including no reason. Good thing there is more than one insurance company to choose from. I switched companies for a similar issue and it actually saved me money!

 

I’m not 100% convinced (yet) that something is wrong. It could be. Or it could be a thermometer that is off by 100f at 700f. It could be a small firebox and the thermometer is at an unusually hot place. It could be the air is not closed all the way because that is hard to get used to if you haven’t run a secondary tube stove. Sometimes they just take some getting used to. Or it could be a leak. We really need more info.

 

Maybe i wasn't clear enough in my initial post. Those rising temps ARE with the air off. And sometimes they keep rising. There isn't any way possible this is normal operation of the stove. Yet, manufacturor insists I buy a $350 blower to put a band aid on their likely issue. Horse manure if you ask me.

 

Thank you for replaying. Good to hear I'm not the only one. My wife and I were excited about our new stove - less ovine parts, easy operation, etc. but then when the run away freight train occurs, it's more like a nightmare and a scary one at that. I just want a normal operating stove - safety load it with dry wood, decrease the air and let it do its thing.

My stove is an Iron Strike Grandview 230. I have checked literature of theirs and cannot find a primary air source location.

The damper is not an option for me despite how many people tell me it shouldn't be. I live in a log home and quit a few insurance companies didn't want anything to do with insuring my home. It is what it is and I need to find another way around the issue.

Thanks again for your reply.