In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Plugged chimney cap

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by bushpilot, Nov 26, 2016.

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  1. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    So, I just tried an almost cold start, similar to what saskwoodburner suggested, and it seemed to work. Whereas the needles were matched to start (mid scale), I now have "split needles", where the STT is showing a little higher on its scale than the flue is on its scale. Here is the current result on a small (and dying) burn:

    Flue
    IMG_20170101_174407_hdr.jpg

    STT IMG_20170101_174356_hdr.jpg

    Fire IMG_20170101_174417_hdr.jpg
    The effect could be a matter of a dying fire, with a more responsive flue gage than STT gage, though as I type this, they both seem to be holding.

    Interesting, thanks for the viewpoint.
     
    bushpilot, Jan 1, 2017
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  2. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Any pics of how clogged up it was? Been running my 30 for 5 years and I have never had any build up. I didn't clean my flue this season because of how clean it was the year before last. I got maybe 2-3 cups. This is the 18' of Class A looking down from the top.

    20141031_134506.jpg

    This is the double wall off the stove.

    20141031_204048.jpg
     
    DexterDay, Jan 2, 2017
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  3. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Sorry, no photos. It (the screen) was clogged to where light did not pass through. The flue was clean.
     
    bushpilot, Jan 2, 2017
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  4. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Got a great fire going, in "the zone." STT 550, flue 400, both steady for a while now. Enough draft to keep the secondaries pretty active, and the airwash is working as well.

    Cool!
     
    bushpilot, Jan 2, 2017
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  5. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    That sounds about to be about the perfect "low as possible", overnight, and most efficient fire. I wouldn't run the flue temps any lower for fear of condensation in the flue.
     
    Highbeam, Jan 5, 2017
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  6. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I'm normally closer to 750°-800° STT and 600° flue. It's hard for me to keep it lower without smoldering it and making a mess of the window. So I run it hot. It's been 5 seasons of running the 30 and I've come to realize that running 900° isn't uncommon with good Wood and I still have a good coal bed when I get home from work (load at 10 pm and get home at 4-5pm). But I stuff it full.

    Then I run one quick hot 4 split load and to get a good coal bed and then load it up at 10 pm again.. Rinse and repeat:)
     
    DexterDay, Jan 7, 2017
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  7. oldspark

    oldspark

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    Flue temp is surface or probe?
     
    oldspark, Jan 9, 2017
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  8. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Probe. 100%.. Only way to read it in my opinion.
     
    DexterDay, Jan 19, 2017
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  9. oldspark

    oldspark

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    Then you are running a flue temp fairly close to what I am maybe even a little higher, never a problem with black glass or creosote.
    Reading flue temps on surface is more then accurate enough as long as you have a good temps sensor, the Condar brand seems to be one of the best.
     
    oldspark, Jan 19, 2017
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