In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Picking Up A Free MS 260 Pro (Damaged)

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Bret Hart, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    I keep eyeing the muffler on my (moms, :D) MS230. I think there is some power to be gained there so when I do the mod, of course there will be pics.
     
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  2. Boog

    Boog

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    I modified 2 of them so far, an 025 and a 250. There is an inner baffle with "limited" holes in it, on the first 025 I enlarged the existing holes and drilled several more. On the 250, I just took the baffle right out. Then on both I really opened up the existing "gill slits" probably adding another 50% volume to the openings. That's all I did and after retuning the carb saw a definite "qualitative" difference in performance. I have not fooled with my 250CB-E yet as it is sitting in storage awaiting a call to active duty sometime in the future. Wanted to keep it stock for now just in case I end up selling it instead.
     
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  3. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Thanks Boog. I might have a go at it tonight. I'll try to get some pics if I do.
     
  4. Boog

    Boog

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    Here is a photo of the baffle I modified for the 250 (same as I did for the 025) but then decided to just remove completely. The holes were only on the one side, the bottom as I remember. I drilled those holes straight through (enlarged them a little too I think), plus added the two larger holes to the tab that points to the left. Original exhaust flow was out the port, down through the original holes, around the baffle to the left of the tab, and out the muffler at the top front gill slits. This modification allowed exhaust to pass right through both top and bottom, as well as facilitate passage around/through the left tab, to the top front gill slits. With this modification, the 025 ran "real nice". On the 250, after modifying the baffle, I just decided to leave the baffle out and see how it ran (wide open from the port to the front gill slits). Be advised that the baffle is also meant to support the front cover as its tightened down with the nuts, but I gently tightened the front cover down till things were snug and tried it out. It ran "real nice/great", so I just decided to leave it out entirely. I've sold both of those saws after running almost 2 tanks through them and they had no problems up to that point. Also carefully bent/rounded the existing gill slits wide open on the front cover.



    DSC_3697.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
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  5. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Got started on the muffler last night. Not pretty yet but I still need to pick up a few new carbide bits to finish the job.
     

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  6. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    You can even hog out that whole area with the 5 holes in it. The one I did on the 390 was a tame mod. I think I may do more to it later.

    Ur looking good, I promise you that you will tell a difference. It will be like running one saw larger.
     
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  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    +1 on more exit area. Let 'er breathe/roar!

    Also don't forget to mod the deflector as it becomes the bottleneck after the muffler is opened up.
     
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  8. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Planning on doing the deflector as well but want it to look nice when I'm done. I destroyed my carbide bits on a job a month or so ago and need to replace them. They should help make for a decent looking product when I'm done I hope.
     
  9. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Are u going to drill the deflector?? I would grind it out with a dremel or use those tiny cutting wheel on it.
     
  10. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Not sure exactly how I'll do the deflector. I don't have a dremel but I do have a few die grinders that I've used with the carbide bits to gasket match cylinder heads and intake manifolds.
     
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  11. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Do you have a harbor freight tools near they sell them with all kinds of bits for like $9
     
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  12. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Didn't think about Harbor Freight. Have 2 of them close by. Now that you have me thinking, I do have a roto zip with some metal bits. It can be a little tough to keep steady but I might give that a try.
     
  13. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I ben meaning to buy one from HF, but I borrow my neighbors when I have needed one. I keep meaning to buy one for things like this or the occasional nut or bolt to be cut in a right spot.

    I have the HF brand rotozip. Used it on some wood floors to cut out boards and yea its hard to steady!
     
  14. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Got the muffler finished but still need to tune the carb. A bunch of paying work showed up so the saw is going to have to wait. Time to get the reel grinder fired up.:D
     

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  15. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Man!! Your gonna smoke some bark with that thing!!

    Sure will sound throaty I bet!
     
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  16. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    That little bastard is gonna be L-O-U-D. :D
     
  17. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Well, winter work has been pouring in and I have some extra money to spend now that Christmas shopping for the warden and kids is taken care of. I stopped at the local saw shops and none of them stock .325 full chisel chains. What would your next best recommendation be?
     
  18. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Order it.... :D

    Seriously, they don't stock 26RS-xx loops? RSC3/RS3 isn't terrible chain but nothing rips like plain old RS chain.
     
  19. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    I was afraid you'd say order it. They don't stock it in .325 for some reason and if I need one quickly I won't be able to just go and get it.

    Maybe I should just switch to 3/8.
     
  20. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Oregon LGX ain't bad.

    But RS is where it's at!