pelpro pp60 anybody have one?

If you are gonna run "up" the inside of your wall, then 2" is good for most pipe.. But you will want to follow the pipe manufacturers guidelines on clearance to combustibles. Simpson Pellet vent pro is only 1" clearance to combustibles. And I thought you needed 12" with pellet vent pro, but I would have to look.

So whatever brand venting you go with? Follow their guidelines.

I am a fan of Selkirk DT (Direct Temp) venting. That's what's on my stove upstairs. It has the exhaust and OAK air all in one pipe. It's also a 6" pipe (looks like wood stove pipe. It has a 4" vent in the middle and the outer 2" is for the outside air to travel in (it preheats the incoming air)

 

Its in good shape except for some minor surface rust that I need to fix. It was left in the garage this year and did rust a little. Overall its an easy cleanup! I fired it and let it go for a little while and it worked great no issues at all! I can't wait to hook it up…. DexterDay Is the light rust something usual in the burn pot or is that just due to setting in the garage? I checked all the info and it was built 12/22/13 and sold 2/17/2014.

 

For $400 clams, I think you did rather well.

Once the heat gets to the metals, Any moisture contact will result in rusty spots. Being in the garage certainly didn't help matters!

 

Thanks bro! It all literally wipes off the stove too I just hit it lightly with a wire brush and BAM no more rust.

 

The rust on the inside is not a big deal. The rust on the outside can be cured with some Stove Bright Satin black paint.

The big thing with a pellet stove is the fuel to air ratio. You want to make sure the burn pot is seated properly and all gaskets are good and seal tight. If there is a big gap in the burn pot and burn pot receptacle, you lose some air that would normally be used for combustion. So make sure the pot is in correctly and there is no big gaps.

 

Thanks brother... Hey check your PM's too.

 

Getting the stove cleaned up!

 

Buying in hulk is only a good idea when a pellet is proven, as Larry stated. Sticking with known brands that preform well will help, but it's always best to know what your stove "likes". I have learned over the years to buy something that can eat anything. The Enerzone and it's design can push any pellet through it (it was designed to run very, Very high ash content pellets) and my furnace in the basement is self cleaning and doesn't care if you feed it dog food

But it's always best to run at least 2-3 bags (a couple days of burning). That way you know the amount of ash (and time) your gonna need cleaning it. Some pellets burn very clean and can leave the pot clean for days (depends on the unit and it's airflow), while others will plug up the pot within 8-10 hours and need daily attention.

My Enerzone can go a ton easily (I was very close last season to a Ton, but Christmas came and I HAD to clean the stove/per the wife's instructions) without touching it. Just add fuel and let it eat pellets. I really love that stove! I owe Fyrebug BIG TIME! !

 

Thanks! I bought a bunch of 2" air grinder stripping wheels from HF and cleaned everything I could then hit it with 1200 paint from Menards. While we where there we noticed they sell this stove! $995 for our model and it's rated up to 1650sq ft on the sale tag... Our downstairs is 1000 sq ft. Wonder if it will do better than we thought? I can't wait to see... The manual says 1750sq ft soooo.

 

By the way that means I have $427 into it and it looks like new! We found a wall thimble at Menards for $45 and a 90 degree bend for $15. That should be all we need to finish! That means for less than $500 we will have a like new stove albeit a little small I think....

 

DexterDay I am going to follow your advice and weld half circle tubes to set on the heat plate above the fire right where the holes are for the heat to come out. Ok ok kinda following your advice lol... Hopefully more mass equals more heat.

 

Really don't need to weld them. We found just placing aluminum extrusions on the surface has acted like a heat sink. Which has helped the convection fan pull more heat out of the stove.

I'd experiment with different shapes and sizes before you make it permanent.

 

They will set on the plate but not be attached. I'll I have is about 7' of c channel to use... I may go to the scrap yard and look though for circle tubes. The tubes will be tacked on top with a small piece of metal just to hold position and not move out of place. Basically I can pull 4 screws lift the top and pick them out as one piece...

Do you have a pick of the aluminum you used and how?