Pellet heads!! What's up today?

I need to replace mine. I will probably wait till spring, gotta look in the manual for the size I need. Combustion blower squeaks sometimes, I should order a new one and switch them out before it goes.

 

My pellet guy now has an electric pallet jack. He brings it to my garage and I out the pallets where I want them as he goes back and forth getting the pallets from his truck. The electric ones jack takes some getting use to, but is much easier on the back. With 1.2 ton pallets, overcoming inertia is a beatch with a manual jack

 

I was going to wait as well but I had the gasket with warm temps and it really doesnt take long....unless you break a dam bolt to re adjust the door tension to the new gasket

 

Oh, get the gasket now. HD had them on clearance already

 

gotta crash,night all

 

I did my evening med up and cut my pills for the week. Hopefully I can cut back my met dose. Last trip it was my amlodipine still go too low during the noon hour.

 

His meds will determine what and when.

 

Don't have a HD by me, will probably get one at menards, tsc, or family farm.

 

tsc near me has almost no stove items on the shelves as of last Tuesday..........

 

I’m not sure what you mean by “still go too low during the noon hour” your BP?

 

They burned just fine with a minor adjustment. I believe the price was $5.51 a bag. Good to know for the future.

 

Yes my BP goes out of sight low usually around noon time. It is too low for about 3 hours.

 

I take my first load of BP meds at 8:00 AM my BP goes down for the next 4 to 7 hours.

 

Low like 90/60? Perhaps you need to watch some Panda’s Web Cam aka bear porn for a few hours in the morning.

Back in my athletic college days my BP was considered too low to give blood, as I was in extreme shape, now days that’s newly considered a normal range.

 

The cold has abated some and it's raining now

Weather dudes are wishy washy on the forecast, with some saying low 40's F and others still talking a heavy snow event by Tuesday.

Anyway.....
More work done on the NEW CONTROLS FOR THE BIG WHITFIELD..

Had to order some really flexible 16 gauge wire to get the leads from the panel cover (Switches, pots, meters, fuses) all in and able to flex with the cover opening and closing.

Bought some 16Ga silicone jacketed wire rated at 200 C temp and 600 volts.

Stuff is as flexible as a wet string of spaghetti .....very nice to work with.

Sadly, after yesterdays stint sitting at the panel working my roll of black wire is nearly gone and the job is not done....

I ordered another roll and it should be here in a couple days...

Really looking like something now..

A piccy I snapped this morning.

I still need to assemble the heat range resistor block package and connect it to the large rotary switch.

Then there will be two (2) wires from the heat range control to the cycle timer.

The fan speed control pots and the various indicator lamps are still left to wrangle with...

I have temporary text on the panel cover to identify the various controls, but the plan is to do some nice labels for these once testing is done and I figured out what I want to call things... YESS, a piccy from back a while showed the panel text all done neatly (Photoshop) Alcohol wipes the sharpie off easily...

The plan is to do a temporary hook up to some spare fans and probably a light bulb to act as the feed motor for a good test session before actually installing the unit back on the stove.

The old equipment is still churning away happily after I wired in the stand alone room fan speed control.

Getting through the winter is priority one.....

Definitely getting excited about flipping the switch and getting the beast into testing....

The little RED button ..top right... is an extra that I decided not to use... I may remove it and plug the hole with a little snap in plug.

The green RESET button is used to reset the Latchout relay if the power goes off or the stove is unplugged.

A safety device to require human intervention in case of anything out of the ordinary.

A high heat, fan failure, or power outage..
Anything that disrupts the power (The primary feed goes through the snap switches at very low amperage and controls the LATCHOUT which then controls a solid state 20 amp relay to handle main power)

The various indicator lamps can tell if there is an issue.
Main power on when switch is flipped (RED)
Auger feeding (RED) Blinking on/off
Low limit closed (GREEN) stove at operating temp.
Auger power (GREEN)
Draft fan power (GREEN)
Room air fan power (Green)

Pots to control the voltage to the draft and room air fans...meters to show voltage at the motors.

Burn switch to shut feed off and allow stove to cool off and shut down.
Main switch to kill the power to the controls.
BIG RED start button to engage the startup cycle
HEAT control...1 through 5 for heat range and P for prime...runs the auger full on to refill on a run dry scenario.
Little green to reset.
Black knobs at the top RH/LH retain the cover...center top knob is a grab point to open the cover easily.

Fuses
MAIN Complete panel/stove power
AUGER
DRAFT FAN
ROOM AIR FAN

 

Aaaaahh simplicity at its finest, very nice Snowy

 

Had to make a trip into town today before the storm rolls in tomorrow. Stopped by TSC to pick up some of those nondescript pellets. They had three pallets up front, one had only 35 bags, I asked if they had a way of moving the pallet out to the parking lot I’d take all 35. No sorry we can only sell you 10 bags a day. I have to drive 36 miles round trip to pick up more tomorrow? Yes sorry company policy. If I lived in the city where it’s located there’s no problem.

 

Thank you...
Hardly simple, but easy to fix in anything quits.

The micro electronics on a printed circuit board is certainly very compact and neat, but the cost to replace the entire unit when something quits really sucks.

 

Like 96/48. I get dizzy er lightheaded since dizzy ain't recognized.

 

The new normal is<120/<80 I always have (except when it is too low) a diastolic between 70 and 79. <106/<60 is considered hypo-tense.