Pellet heads!! What's up today?

My project for today was to do more work on the basement (which I haven't worked on in quite a while. I figured I had very few bags of pellets in the house, and before I moved more in, I would extend some of the flooring so that the concrete is covere. Two pics of the floor once I got the pallets and pellets out, one pic of the air Gap system** (allows any moisture to move out underneath, and two of the plywood - one whole sheet and the other was done in one cutting!!!! I did finish out with plywood over the rest of the Air Gap System, just didn't take any pics.

** please note, if using the Air Gap System, taping between the seams to keep moisture from penetrating is a must - I just took that picture before the taping was done.

Hey don2222 - you were asking about putting in a floor in your basement - this is one way.

 

Look'in good , what are you planning on putting over the plywood ??

 

I have a 5x8 scrap piece of white linoleum that I have laid down and letting it relax. I'll just leave it loose lay - it's not quite big enough for the entire space so may change it out in the future when I get the rest of the floor put in.

 

Oh, then of course I have to put in non-combustible materials in front of the stove and the boiler - haven't decided exactly how that is going to be accomplished

 

Can you just add another row of brick in front of the p 43 ?

 

You sure have skill and talent.

 

Um, that is the P61a I don't have anything in front of it at this point besides plywood. Those are 12" cinder blocks that stove is on and they don't stick in front of the stove. Of course I "could" just put brick there, or tile, or rock, or just get a pre-built hearth, but I want to be thoughtful about that part (read, I want to wait until the last second and panic when it comes time to fire it up next fall ). Since the boiler is opposite the pellet stove (and offset), I figure whatever I do will just take up a whole rectangular section.

 

Will you marry me??

Dan

 

I'll bet you say that to all the girls.

 

A proposal on this forum, this place rocks

 

I've put the dimple air gap on my basement floor also along with laminate flooring. It sure helps on the bare feet
By the way, nice work bogieb, Snowy Rivers

 

Be better if I'd ever actually met the guy though

 

Only the ones that ride,
Clear the driveway with a snowblower,
knows more about pellet stoves than I do,
and do construction....


Dan

 

Thanks Bo

When we started down the revamp of the master bath the idea of replacing the shower with a tub was tossed about, and luckily the shower was a touch over 60" wide (Common Island tub size)

Another cruise down Craig's list turned up that big tub.

The tub was about 45 miles away and easy to get to.
Guy was going to haul it to the trash but his wife suggested putting it on craig's list, cause someone will come and get it.

For $50 it was a steal.

The tub was originally fed from a "Tower" built alongside the island so there were no faucets or spigot in the tub itself.

After getting the beast fit up with a solid bottom support platform so it could sit on its own (Originally grouted into the floor) the issue of plumbing came to the forefront.

The shower had the common center drain with the water piped in on the end that is now opposite the tub drain.

The water pipes (plastic) came up through the floor and then into the wall and up to the shower valve.

Had to hack the shower out in chunks (very ugly process) and toss it out the slider door.

Chopped the wall board and then removed the shower valve and shortened the pipes back.

Next the issue with the drain had to be resolved.

The center drain was in a place that was going to require a CHIT LOAD of hacking to get it moved to the proper location for the tub and so decided to leave it in place.

Built a platform 10 inches above the floor to sit the tub on and then went from there.

Was an easy shot to connect the center drain to the tub with a run of ABS pipe and a few fittings.
(Kept the original P trap)

The Front panel on the tub with the oak doors is totally removable if service to the drain is needed, otherwise the oak panels remove easily with 4 screws each to allow quick access to water shut off valves.

The 10" increase in height necessitated a stable step to get into the tub, so we built that and it has a quick connection draw bolt that holds it firmly to the front panel (Panel is a 2 x 3 frame with plywood cover) With this lash up coming to fruition the matter of safety came to mind, hence the big bar assembly.

The last many projects around here have benefited a bunch from Craig's list for sure.

The dual sink vanity
Tub
Pergo floor for the living/dining room

Just wish my ambition was equal to the projects.

Since my stroke back in 2012 the giddyup go got up and went away.

Some days things get done and some days I dream about them

 

Thanks for the compliments

Many years working in industry
Machinist
Fabricator
Welder
Electrician
Plumber
General mechanic
Drove heavy trucks for 20 years plus

So much easier and cheaper to just do it myself

 

And you don't have to wait in line or try to explain what you want the project to look like. Not a easy thing to do when you have smaller projects. Unemployment is really low here so it is very hard to hire skilled workers.

 

Oh those damm p series hormones all look the same

 

Around here the cost would be prohibitive to get a custom anything done.

My nephew lives near Seattle and his water heater died and he was quoted $4200 for a new heater and installation.

Gawd
Don't want to buy a new house

 

What $ 4200 for a water heater