I bought this stove over 25 years ago. One thing led to another and I installed a outdoor water stove. I never used the Fisher. I retired this summer and have decided to also retire my Hardy Wood stove. I need help with the proper setup for the Fisher. So far I have installed a new stainless steel 6 inch liner from Rockford Chimney Supply. 23 feet of 316ti was needed to reach the basement location. The Fisher needs a few new fire brick so my first question is a good source for these. I would also like to know if a stove pipe damper should be installed and if so where? My last question is can I put some kind of damper or baffle inside the stove to make it a little more efficient? I have been looking at this forum and there seems there are some very knowledgeable people on it. I would love some info on this particular wood stove. I can include some pictures as soon as I figure how it is done. Thanks for your help.
Welcome to the club Buckrocker. Coaly and WeldrDave along with others here can help you with your questions.
Cut your wood between 16-20” and keep the fire in the front. That seems to help a lot. I too have thought about the baffle. I run mine without a pipe dampner, but I don’t have nearly as long a chimney. When she gets windy I only open the drafts a 1/4 turn instead of a half turn to overnight.
Thanks for the info so far. When I bought this stove I had no idea of it’s neat history. I was also going to install a gasket but it seems this stove doesn’t require one. Again thanks for any help. I really wish to get this project finished and make it safe.
Correct no gasket needed. Even though half your family will tell you your gonna burn your house down if ya don’t put a gasket in.
Found a local source for the firebrick. Boy that is fun job. A big guy just doesn’t fit inside that stove. Lol Just wondering about a baffle and should I install a damper before firing it up?
I would do a pipe damper...can't hurt. Worst case scenario is you leave it open. Yes on the baffle too...I hear that is a really great mod on these units! I know Coaly has the dimensions for them... WeldrDave might too...oh, and welcome to FHC Buckrocker ! That lil stove will use a lot less wood than the OWB did!
With that high of a chimney, yes you will need a damper to slow it down. A flue pipe damper is a variable resistance that slows velocity of rising gasses. It is a chimney control that affects the stove by decreasing draft. It doesn't matter where it is located, just put it within easy reach. You will greatly improve performance with a baffle plate. 5/16 thick is the best thickness, 3/8 is acceptable for the single door stoves. Wider double doors should be 5/16. Only the double door stoves after 1980 had factory baffle installed to reduce smoke for upcoming EPA regulations. Make a cardboard template first, set it on the rear brick retainers and angle upwards in the front toward lower bend in top. The baffle size depends on many factors. Make it so it has the same square inch opening for the exhaust to travel (smoke space) as the stove outlet, pipe and chimney flue in your case. This is 28.26 square inches for 6 inch round. Set the front on wedges or shims to adjust the height in front. This will fine tune the stove to the chimney. Your stove was made between 1977 and 1980 by the Dunn Brothers fabricators. Probably '77 due to the short handle with stainless spring and 4 fin EZ Spin air dampers. Later models would have a longer handle, a plated course wound spring and 5 fin air dampers.
Thanks for the info. So the back of the baffle will rest on the back brick retainer? There are 4 pieces in the back. 3 low and 1 high next to the exhaust flue. Is the bottom piece on the back wall the location for the baffle to rest? (Picture #2). Or are they the 2 on the sides of the stoves in the back. (location for the back of the baffle to rest) Sorry for the questions but I am one of those measure 3 times and cut once people
picture 1 Picture 2. I found these 2 pictures. I am confused as to which to copy to my baffle set up. Any information for improvements is appreciated. We are headed to the farm to look for scrap metal today. Thanks
Not all stoves will have the small baffle type shelf under the flue outlet. There are side and top vent models and some will rust off. In those cases, rest the baffle on rear brick retainers. In 1977 there was a drawing revision sent to fabricators for an optional upper firebrick row like yours has. They may or may not be in the way. Firebrick cut easily if you have to notch them. Just score with a masonry blade and they break cleanly. You should be able to make a wedge shape with a brick to rest the plate on top of the upper bricks. Sliding the wedge forward and back lowers and raises the baffle plate to adjust for chimney draft. The second picture was when I was experimenting with baffle height. I then welded angle iron to the plate to prevent the side bricks from crashing inward. That stove is now connected to another chimney, so I'm glad I didn't weld any angle to the stove to allow for adjustment. If you make a 2 inch notch in the front corners of baffle plate, it will prevent stagnation in the front and rear corners of stove heating the stove top more equally.
