No, they are on the front. If you look at my first set of pics and the last set you'll see that this board doesn't have one. I don't know when they started using dip switches but I'm pretty sure this board is ancient.
Also my burn pot does not have the two air holes up by the flame guide. Does that mean the one in my stove is the old style and if so would it be worth upgrading to the new style? Is there anything else that would need to be changed?
Other than sandblasting my burn pot, I have cleaned it to the best of my ability and I have never seen these holes. Mine is a 2007. I have seen people talk about them. Some say they have never seen them (including pellet techs) and some folks see them and clean them often. Am I missing something? Just scoured the owners manual and didn't see any reference to them.
Hi Tazz Was that current reading with the clamp only on the yellow wire of 0.09 amps taken with the stove just starting up with the igniter light on? If so, it should read 2.39 amps which means the Igniter triac on the circuit board and the circuit board is toast!
Yes Chandler, you have the old burnpot, if you upgrade to the new burnpot and flame guide you will have a much more efficient stove save $$ by burning 1/4 less pellets. See my pics here of the old and new fluted burnpots The Accentra Insert & Advance use the same burnpot. Which stove do you have? 1999 Harman Advance - Flame Lapping brick Backing creating Black Burn Spot!
Hey Tazz So are you going to cut the 2 wires going to the igniter and connect them to an AC cord and plug the igniter into the wall outlet? You can get blue quick disconnect connectors at Home Depot so you can easily connect them back to the stove’s wire harness. In this way, you can have auto light when you plug the cord in? Connectors Tyco Electronics 0.250 Series 16-14 AWG 10/Clam Female Disconnect Fully Insulated Nylon-EB0280-000 - The Home Depot Ac cord Husky 8 ft. 16/2 Power Tool Replacement Cord-AW62633 - The Home Depot
Ok I did that for a friend because they did not have over $400 for their new control board a few years ago. It worked out great, I wonder if they still use it that way. Anyway, good luck and thanks for helping to figure this out. It was a tricky one.
Agreed, you can pickup a new board for ~$200 - current revision is "F". I just installed one in the P68, the original one was a rev "B" and it's a 2008 stove, and that one had the jumper block, so yours must be a fairly old vintage. I wouldn't worry about cutting a hole in the face plate for the service port, it's unlikely the port will ever be used in the stove's lifetime.
I'll get the new board, ignitor cause the wires are getting brittle and a new esp probe. Right now this stove has the black probe and I'll most likely switch to the red one, just a on or off at the dip switch. This will be under $400 delivered how about that.
Should be quite a bit less than that. Look for the seller esesstoves on ebay. They generally have good prices, and I have had good experience buying from them in the past. Before tax, the board will run you 200, red ESP around 20, and the igniter is somewhere between 20 and 60, depending on if you go with 3rd party or OEM.
I'm kind of ticked off at them. I ordered a USA made exhaust blower for my lopi and they sent a Chinese one, there is a bit of a difference in the price too. They did take care of sending me the correct one but it took over a week to get here. I did order the board, new ignitor with cradle and the red esp all on sale, I just hope they don't screw this order up.
I was surprised that I had a black ESP. Someone cut and spliced the wires so they were recd at the board but black at the probe. The old dip switch was set for the black probe so that's what I went with.
