OWB Can’t keep up after pump change

Another simple thing would be measure how much gpm your circ is flowing by timing it into a bucket. But being able to do that easy depends on your plumbing. Basic idea is valve/shut off return flow into your boiler, disconnect your return line from boiler, stick in bucket and time how long to fill. Real easy if you have iso valves on boiler ins and outs together with drain valves just outside those (also a good idea for purging air too). Not very easy at all if lines are fastened solid to boiler with no iso or drain valves (some differences between good and 'just adequate' installs).

 

What type of lines are connected to the pump?

I have the orange plastic laminated stuff that has a stainless inner lining. It got kinked during a swap and limited flow. I thought I got it straightened out, but the inside was still collapsed. Took care of that and it works great.

 

Mine did, changed out several tacos before going to grunford.
I have a valve installed to purge air. Needed to burp basically.
Afterwards ran fine. It can get trapped in the unlikely of places

 

I don't know why everyone is always ripping taco pumps I get the watts is high but I got them 20 years old and still working perfect . Im thinking alot people have then installed it wrong position . It's a big deal . Or running alot air in system .

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For the taco pumps, they have to be installed so the motor assembly is horizontal. Only. I had one give up the ghost shortly after installation (a matter of months) and it was horizontal, too.

Moved the install location form outside at the unit to the inside of the house up in the floor joists where the supply and return lines run. supported the pump on both sides and have never looked back. This pump has run all season for about 4 years and ever since then, I have let it run continuous 24/7 365! Even though I don't run the OWB during the summer months, the pump is still circulating.

That little taco has a lot of hours on it!

 

Taco makes great pumps. I prefer then to grundfos.

 

I looked I have 1 -007 22 years old another 1 thats 8 years old and 1- 011 that's 13 years old . All get used 7 months each year .

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Air...

Maybe Yooper is right ...

Maybe something wrong with pump...labels are just that. Quality control can make mistakes. It may not be pumping like it should.

 

Buddy was having issues with boiler not putting out heat . After bunch of ideas to check hours . All it was he forgot to add water this year .

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Umm, that'll do it. What boils? Water.....

 

Make sure he checks his vent cap to ensure it is in place. I do not have to add water to mine from year to year and seeing as how he had water low enough to affect his heating, maybe the level got too low?

 

He has a Crown Royal can he put a cap on it ? Its a 7300 I think . If he can what does it look like ? Because I don't think he covers it . He said he adds each year . He just forgot this year .

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From page 24 owners manual crown royal outdoor boilers

"FILLING THE WATER JACKET
Your outdoor furnace has a vent pipe that protrudes through the roof and is behind the chimney. By placing a garden hose in this pipe you can fill your furnace to the proper water level. Because this furnace is an open-to-atmosphere system, it is normal that water will have to be added annually. Depending on circumstances, 5 or 10 gallons is not unusual. To make this procedure more convenient, a boiler drain valve (tap, faucet) can be installed into the return furnace line allowing you to connect a double female (automatic washing machine hose) between it and your domestic supply line.
On your initial filling of your furnace make sure to inspect all connections in your system for leaks. In your system a bleeder valve should have been installed at the highest point. This will allow you to remove any air from the system. CAUTION - do not fire furnace until it is filled with water.
Allow furnace to run for two days and check water levels and fittings for leaks. If all is okay, you now should add the manufacturer’s recommended water treatment"

I have the same "open vent system" which means it is non-pressurized. Mine has a vent cap with a short copper tube running through the cap to allow for venting. The plastic cap itself prevents the condensation/evaporation cycle of the stoves water through the top vent. Maybe his is missing?

 

Ok, he installed a spare taco pump I had on had. It was the same exact style pump as the one he replaced originally. Temp here in DE got down under 20 degrees a couple days later and the house could barely stay 65 degrees. Called the guy back and he’s saying might be heat exchanger. That doesn’t sound good! Seem like more troubleshooting is needed before we go that route?

 

Now this is an OWB to forced air system, correct?

 

Check the air flow at the furnace. It could be something simple as a neglected air filter that is so clogged up..... Don't laugh! An electrician buddy once asked why his AC would work? Yup, air filter. Showed up next day laughing and eating crow!

 

Running the furnace fan (blower motor) without a filter would only help clog up the heat exchanger also. Check the water temps at entry and ext of heat exchanger with blower motor running to see what the delta T is.

Do the temps in DE frequently get into the 20's or was that a rare event? At 20 degrees, there should be no troubles heating the house....unless it is the houses problem due to insulation/sealing issues.

 

It’s forced air. Does have a clean filter and yes common to get into the 20s.

I need to figure out how to measure water temp inside.


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My OWB was not heating the house a few years ago OWB to forced hot air. Come to find out the impeller on the Taco 007 had disintegrated had an old pump that was run without water and seized I pulled the impeller off and put it on the pump in the system that was six years ago still working today.