Oversize/Extra Large Insert Help

I saw that, but I can't imagine anyone did that test before they went bankrupt and out of business in 2008. The chimney pipe itself is 12" ID, so I am sure I could run a liner inside it. I think I might have to replace the chimney caps, they are perforated metal slots. So I am guessing I could get a small woodstove and set it in the fake masonry and run a 6" liner up the 12" chimney, as long as I maintained distance to combustibles using the masonry as a combustible?

 

For sure, I am not rushing anything. The whole idea is to save money by burning wood from my land instead of the heat pumps in the cold months, so doing a last minute renovation to accommodate something would absolutely ruin the value proposition for sure. I will look into trying to sell these junky things.

 

Yeah probably never find DESA listed on anybodys "approved" list these days.
So with a 12" flue, yes you could line it...it would need to have the insulation wrap on it unless you can see inside the chase and verify that all the recommended CTCs were followed.
If you treated the fireplace itself as a combustible then yeah I'd think you would be fine installing a stove in or in front of the FP...I meant to ask about that before, the possibility of getting a free standing stove with a rear flue connector and putting the stove on a hearth in front of the FP, line the chimney using a "tee" at the bottom to connect up to the horizontal stove pipe (1/4" rise per ft of run, minimum, more is much better!)

 

Ok, that's great information thanks!

I do not have room to extend the hearth, as it is raised and would interfere with the room to add to it further. The chimney has some bends in it, so would be hard or impossible to line them anyway, right? It looks like I’m going to have to tear everything apart completely, or give up this dream.

I would go ahead and order a VF-100, but I don’t have a way to install the chimney easily or cleanly, which is doubly frustrating because I already have these useless chimneys that I can’t use.

 

Boy, its amazing how much that looks like a "real" masonry fireplace!
If you were to put a free standing stove out front, you could maybe extend the existing hearth to set it on...if the fireplace opening is tall enough to accommodate the height of the stove pipe. But putting it on a new "hearth extension" out front (where the carpet is now) would be more likely...but if that encroaches on the room too much, then yeah, on to place C or D.
How tight are the bends in the chimney? If they are 30* or even 45* (should never be more than that!) you should be able to get a 6" liner in it since it is 12" ID...and most stoves only use 6" now. A 6" liner with 1/2" insulation blanket (highly recommended!) would be about 7.25" to 7.5" OD total.
I find it hard to believe that you can't add a chimney for the furnace (assume you have abasement)...lots of options out there...you can go out through the wall and up, or straight up through the house. (best option if you can pull it off)
If I were you I'd call a local stove shop or chimney sweep (that does installs too) and get them out for an estimate, (and ideas) chances are there is a way to do it...you just aren't aware of all the options...yet.
What does the fireplace/chimney chase look like from the outside? I assume the FP has a "bump out"...

 

The chase for both identical sheet metal prefabs. One on each floor, obviously. Unfortunately, both rooms preclude extending the hearth.

 

Here is my only place to get a chimney out of the unfinished part of the house where I could attempt to install a VF100. I can’t go up through the house anywhere, just limited by the floor plan.

Thanks for all of the help! I have a call into my chimney sweep to see if he has any ideas also.

 

Beautiful house...I agree with brenndatomu That is some very real looking fake stone!

 

In your insert is almost certainly a gas log set.
To the best of my knowledge, you could more easily install a pellet stove either as an insert or as a freestanding pellet stove that is exhausted through the chimney.
If it absolutely has to be wood- and trust me, I can understand that- I think a more substantive alteration needs to be made to the hearth.

 

Yeehaw! You aren't kidding about difficult! I wouldn't rule out the possibility of pulling off an install there...just wont be easy...definitely a good job for a pro to look at first hand!
One other option might...may be...to install a zero clearance high efficiency wood burning fireplace in place of the prefabs...could possibility limit the amount of demolition and new construction that needs to be done...a stove/hearth shop could tell you more about that option than I can though...

 

I think the zero clearance install will end up being most cost effective in the end, if the VF100 idea won’t work. I’ll let you know what the installers think!

 

The idea is to offset the power bill from the heat pumps in the winter, my power bill triples in the winter from even peak summer bills. The cost and carbon footprint drives me away from pellets, but I’m not knocking them at all. I just have 10 acres of hardwoods that I would really like to lean on for heating help in the winter. Thanks for the input!

 

brenndatomu RGrant I got the rough estimate from the chimney sweep, and will have an itemized quote for a zero clearance fireplace in place of the lower prefab. It will be about $15k with Class A and a bit less with air cooled pipe. That's a whole lot of years worth of heat to pay back out. If the real, binding estimate comes in any differently I will update the thread.

He did say he can install a 6" Class A chimney out of my basement, to the right of that small window above the vents, for about $3k. There is not much room to put a furnace down there as you have seen, and I need to consult with an HVAC contractor for the cost to run all of the ductwork.

The sweep agrees with me, the prefabs are purely vanity appliances and that is wasteful and disrespectful in my opinion. Somewhat frustrated about the results, but I really appreciate all of the help!!!!

 

Don't go air cooled...it doesn't stay as warm as class A doublewall...which means more soot/creosote buildup. Surprisingly, this is a case of 2 walls are better than 3.
If you go the furnace route, $3k chimney, $6k (+) furnace (w/ tax n shipping), And I would guess at least $2k for ductwork...

 

So long as you're happy I'll be happy for you!
I can't really weigh in on what you should do or what costs you should pay. I installed my stove with the help of a buddy and a cousin and paid $400 for my first stove, and $1300 for my new stove and that's about all I could really part with. If you're in a different situation, more power to you- just make sure its done right and you're happy- that's what matters.

 

Did you discuss the possibility of how you could redo things to make a free standing stove work? Partial tear out, liner down through existing chimney, etc, etc?

 

Keep us updated. I see a lot of houses with "fireplaces" like this. I always wonder how your make this proper.

 

Unsurprisingly the sweep recommended air cooled. Is it cynical to think he wants more chimney cleaning revenue?

Thanks for the ducting cost warning, it’s all adding up!

 

So I’ll admit I have a pretty big house with high ceilings, but I am a bit disillusioned with the estimates to heat the house with cordwood. Thanks for the support, I am really hoping I can end up with a solution that makes me happy. I assure it will be done right, nothing is more important than my family’s safety!

 

We did, but he was dismissive of any possibilities that involve the prefabs staying in place. I am thinking it would have to be a diy situation to do so, as he is obviously used to making lots of money.