Oregon Chain for Echo 330

I'm seeing listings on eBay treating them as the same thing.

Here's a very reputable place selling them for $12.35 shipped.

Here's the 91VXL that Doug has been recommending, for $12.25 shipped.

Before ordering I would just make a little more sure that this is the correct chain for your saw. If you post the various numbers (or a photo of them) stamped near the back of your guide bar, we can help you make sense of them.

 

Here are shark fins-really prominent.

 

Tricks of the Trade: Understanding Low-Kickback Saw Chain | Summer 2011

Here's one with a different variation of the shark fin.

 

This is what was written on the bar:
12-10-N1-MHC
Then under that was:
BO *

 

That does seem to be a 3/8LP bar, but you'd better count the drive links on one of your chains. Some references seem to suggest it's a 44DL bar, but information isn't plentiful so I'm not confident about it.

 

I counted the little "shark fins" things that fit in the groove of the bar; counted twice for good measure, and came up with 45.

 

Here is a photo of the current chain:

 

Okay, then you need a 3/8LP chain, 0.050" gauge with 45 drive links. The chains you saw locally would be fine, as would the ones I linked to.

FWIW, the chain in your last pic looks like it has a lot of life left in it, aside from maybe needing a sharpening.

 

I would agree, a non safety chain with lots of life left is what I'm seeing. When the cutter goes so far back it turns into a triangle when looking from the top, then it's ready for retirement.

 

Here's a pic of stock bar on my Echo cs 352

 

Thanks. The info I posted was what I saw but remember, this saw was gifted to me by jon1212 and I don't know if the bar is original to the saw or not.

 

That is what I will do then, spend some time sharpening the chain.

 

Yeah, just trying to give ya an idea of what some look like

 

I can buy a stihl chain for what that oregon chain cost. IMO Stihl chains last longer.

 

Y'know, the "green" and "yellow" thing about saw chain, AFAICT is a stihl-only thing. Ain't seen it anywhere else in the civilized world. :')
One thing is easy- if you see lots of unproductive metal bits blocking chip-flow, look for a different chain. The huge fin thingies, "tri-rakers" and such are kludges to prevent idiots from maiming themselves (theoretically) and to provide ammunition for defense lawyers. IMO
Much of this metallic debris makes difficult/impossible to make a boring cut. 'Nuff said?

 

Check the Oregon Chain selector site. You'll see green and yellow triangles beside a chain indicating the ANSI color level.

 

I don't use such a tool, and have never seen such markings on any chain, but those from stihl. Normally, spin it up myself or order loop(s) to my spec from Frawley's.

 

Yes, color physically on a chain - only seen on a Stihl. The awful lime green tie strap. The others are called green or yellow by their anti-kickback rating.

 

I think I am getting confused now.

 

I was too at first.
You're learning cause you're asking the right questions & the right folks
No worries. Keep asking. !

( I have my saw chain bar specs & numbers & number written down &
like HDRock a picture of the bar specs )

Used to take my chain to a local saw shapener. They never stayed sharp long. Found out he overheated them all.

I took my saw, I went to a saw shop bought some new chains. couple files & a file guide. They recommended the LPX .
Watched a couple online videos,

When the chain is dull, you're not gonna hurt it with a file, only help it
Don't tell anyone I said this : "it's firewood, I don't get to critical,"

Been hand filing for years now.
a sharp chain is easier & safer to use.