Oregon 620 or Tecomec Super Jolly; Any Difference?

Just out of the box today but not mounted yet. That's going to take some give and take for space and some creative engineering so the machine can be moved out of the way when not in use.

The unit is sold under the Sterns brand name, as you can see tagged on the upper left corner of the box. The machine is actually manufactured by and branded Tecomec. This same machine is also made for and branded as the Oregon 620-120. It's well made and appears very easy to use. It comes with 3 wheels to cover chains up to 3/4 and all needed extras.

At $280 and free shipping from Maverick Mower Supply its a great deal and as much as $125 cheaper than any other supplier.

Because, to start with, I'll only be grinding Stihl 3/8x.50 full chisel chains I've elected to use the 1/8 wheel. Stihl uses a smaller file and a smaller Timberline cutter so I'll start with the smaller of the two recommended wheels for this chain.

Thanks to huskihl for putting me on to this! Guys and gals like him is what makes this forum so great.

More pictures and information to follow once it's mounted and running.

 

Youre gonna want the 3/16 wheel for 3/8. The other one will work, but it'll leave extra metal in the gullet that'll need filed out. Even with the 3/16 wheel, I file the rest of the way down to the tie strap every 3 or 4 touchups

 

Now that you point it out I see that after 2 chains. I was thinking I had a setting off.

Again, that's the stuff that makes this group so cool. Thanks!

 

Mine only came with the 1/8", so I ground few chains with it. Picked up a 3/16 and it was much better. I also grabbed a 1/4" and ground it flat for doing rakers

 

What are the settings for Stihl .325x.50 low profile? I've got a couple of pruning saw chains to restore. I didn't see it on the chart that came with the grinder.

 

I use the same numbers, unless it's semi chisel. On semi I don't tilt the vice. I set the grinder head to 60 rather than 55 otherwise you won't get any hook in the cutter and they won't self feed

 

Okay, I spent the day cutting with a chain I sharpened with the new chain grinder. What I cut was all ash, save a half acre of honeysuckle bush, that I felled a few weeks ago.

I bucked 11 trees ranging from 10 to 16" in diameter using the 362. The saw went through them like a hot knife through butter. And after cutting that much the chain is still nearly as sharp as it was when I started.

Next week I'll crank up the 461 with a 25" and try it out on some bigger stuff.

The Super Jolly is easy to use and, as I learned today, quite accurate in its angles and depths. I think it got the chain so sharp because I took a very small amount off and went around twice. I think in a shop they would have taken more off and only hit the cutters once. For them time is money.

I sharpened 5 chains from 16 to 28" in less time than I could have sharpened one with the Timberline. I love my Timberline sharpener but after today, I believe it's time to retire it or make it available to members of the FHC family.

If anyone is thinking about purchasing a chain grinder I strongly recomend the Super Jolly from Maverick Mower Supply for $280, almost $100 cheaper than any other supplier.

 

I guess by the size of these ash chips I figured out how to use the new chain grinder! Why didn't I get one sooner?!?

 

55 on a head angle puts you too deep into the gullet under the top cutting edge ( making the edge much thinner kinda like sharpening a knife vs an axe) ( unless the indicator is set up differently than what I am used to although I haven't seen any one of dozens out there that varied on that)). General purpose I use 65 deg head tilt and 25 deg across the top - do an awful lot of commercial chains to the point that I wear out the vises on the units in a year or less.