Not for the supply ducts...and galvanized should never be used for stove pipe anyways, so... Why's that, you'd rather pay full price?! I thought Yoopers were "frugal" I find Menards site to be less than user friendly sometimes too. And using (2) sections of 6" to make 12" is an excellent idea!
Wouldn't you have to flip one of the pieces? Then that would mess up how the duct fits into collars? Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
Yes...while the one is "unzipped", pound the crimps flat on the formerly male end, then add crimps to the other (formerly female) end with your new crimping pliers from Menards ($20 ish IIRC) https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...ct-pipe-crimper/thht-1444/p-1488180036833.htm 6 x 3.14 x 2 = the same as 12 x 3.14 (37.68)
No, you don't to flip one piece. You will see. Seam A fits into seam B with crimp on top. Lay first pipe with crimp at top and seam A on your left. This leaves seam B looking for a mate. 2nd pipe with crimp at top, seam A on the left again. This seam A of the 2nd pipe will mate with the seam B of the first pipe. You'll see. Just watch out for those pipes when they couple this way. It can be kinda tricky.
Not so much as paying full price, it's more that I'm tired of waiting 2 months for the rebate to show up! And, their sales are better than 11% anyway.
Ha! Surely, you're not speaking of me? You know how many mistakes Eric VW has corrected on my posts????? Cripes, I think for awhile there, he had me on "speed correct"!!!
some times the brain moves faster then the fingers.. Happens to me quite often Isnt that quite amazing how the brain works. Because when I read that my brain put the word there that was missing and I didn't even notice untill brenndatomu pointed that out. Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
I'm from under the bridge. About an hour or so NE of Grand Rapids Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
Well guys, I got the plenum installed. I ended up going 10" ducting Now to just hook up the cold air return to the blower Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
That looks better. Now then, is that galvanized pipe hooking to the chimney? If so, bad idea...galvanized pipe can give off some nasty toxic fumes when you get it over 750*, which is not hard to do with those old school burners.
No not galvanized in chimney. Its all 6" black chimney pipe. I also made a chimney cap with a rain cap. I have a 8" black pipe around my 6" for the rain cap. The screen is no longer on the rain cap I took that off and will re install it in late spring to keep birds out Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
For me to hook up my cold air return to my blower. Do you think I would be okay to use 7" duct? I have enough of that already in my basement and don't have to spend any more $ on it Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
No...the return air needs to be ~20% bigger than the supply...so if you went with 10", that's 12" for the return...sound right yooperdave ?
We (businesses I worked for) always upsized the RA a bit. Look at it this way, the 10" leaving the wood stove plenum carries right around 350 cfm (a bit less) 7" pipe feeding the air to the wood furnace carries about 150 cfm (a bit less). The numbers show that system is starving for RA. This can create more problems by increasing the velocity of the RA to make up for the "shortage". Without having to go into needless detail and the what ifs, just increase the size of the pipe to the RA. Another way to get around this is to install a RA grille into the plenum (box) of the return air on the wood furnace. Drawback of this approach is that the air would not be drawn from the living space as well as it should be.
Did you install an elbow in the gas furnace plenum with the elbow pointing up and away? And a manual damper in the supply (10") from the wood furnace? Hope so. Also, its important to filter the air before it enters the wood furnace.
Having run both ways, (with and without RA hooked up) the supply temps tend to run about 10* warmer with the RA hooked up. Might not be as big of a deal with an old school furnace, but the newer HE stuff tends to run with lower supply temps, (over a longer time though) so an extra 10* can mean a lot...
