I'm assuming this is creasote build-up? Should i scrape if off and get it out of the stove before using?
I can't say on this post, I've never had creosote til we bought this place and the inside and chimney looked like that but I did want to mention our second stove (which was an upgrade from the Franklin ) did not use gaskets by design. Of note, it was barn doors similar to yours without any glass too. Is there a channel for a gasket? We thought ours did back in 94' but it was not, it was only a precise gutter for the bead weld on the body to fit into....
Not sure if this is a channel or just lip for the doors to seat (or if anyone can tell from these pics)? I think i saw some flat gasket at the local hardware store... thinking about getting some and seeing how it fits unless yall advise otherwise...
I'm sorry I can't tell if there should be one all the way around or not. I would call Buck Stove and ask, maybe then can confirm if it is a Buck or a knock off, ask if their older models have door gasket all the way around, about firebrick. That and if the hood gasket is sold separately too. https://buckstove.com/contact-us I'll be interested to hear what they say!
My Buck does have a gasket all the way around. The bottom one is a flat gasket, and the other sides are a round gasket, but I can't remember the size right now. The firebrick in my Buck was for use when you were burning coal. It was to be removed if only burning wood. In my Buck, the andirons were supplied with the stove, and were to be used when burning wood.
Thanks for that info Stumpy. I dont know how much difference it makes, but i do think this is a copy since there's no markings, and the opening width doesnt match the 26000, 27000 or 28000 and the dampener works opposite. I was thinking of putting some of the flat all the way around. I don't know how rigid/firm the round gaskets are, but not sure if there's enough room for the round...
Have never messed with / felt the gaskets I've seen, but from some of the posts I've read regarding the matter, I'm guessing they squish or compress quite a bit? I'm guessing how much depends on the brand, quality etc?
Thanks for that wildwest. I have looked at that site, just not sure how to proceed since this seems to be a copy and not a buck. No name on the stove so nothing to try to look up. Not sure if i should get the same gasket (size wise) that the buck would use, or just try some flat all the way around. Would rather not buy rope gasket and then realize it won't work and have wasted the money..
With it probably being a copy, the only thing that I could say is that the real Bucks do have gaskets around the door. I'd say use whatever size works for your stove. Having the doors sealed will give you much better control of the draft with the vents that you have in the doors. My Buck has a channel around the top and the sides for the gasket to fit in(and it looks like yours does too). If yours does not have that channel, then maybe a flat gasket would work the best for you. Of course, be sure to use the real measurements for your stove when ordering the gaskets, not the measurements for the actual Buck stoves. If you have any type of stove shop , a Tractor Supply Company, a Farm and Fleet store or a good hardware store around you, they should all have stove gaskets that you can look at and measure.
Yes it is a recess. See the pic. It's what the edge and top of the door fits into, and at the bottom of that channel is where the gasket goes. The gasket for the bottom of the door is attached to a flat piece on the front of the firebox. BTY, this is not my stove, as mine is burning right now, and it's tough to get a good pic.
That stove does look a lot like this one, just some small differences. Im not sure mine has what i would call a "channel". Its just flat where the doors meet up to the stove, with the edging around that. Dont know if you can tell from the previous pics i posted. I went by the hardware store, they didnt have the flat gasket like I thought. They only have round, smallest being 1/4. Than i think it was 3/8, 5/16 and 3/4.
Pondering a pipe thermometer the other day, i tapped the pipe between stove and chimney with my finger, and heard some small debris falling down. So i decided to take the pipe apart. Single wall as i figured/knew. And evidently cleaning my chimney did not inclde cleaning this piece of pipe, or the stack. And definutely not inside the stove. I will take the pipe outside and see what i can do. Dont have chimney brushes, but if i cant get it to what i think is pretty clean, i think a buddy has some. I reaches down in the stack and brushed off what i could with a paper towel and my fingers (didnt have any kind of brush right then). So, stupid question #"at least a hundred" from me to yall (but i aint done yet)...how clean does all this stuff have to be? I taped a little pocket book mirror thingy to an old piece of shoe molding...shhh dont tell my wife...and tried to scope out the chimney. Looks shiny and clean just as it better for the amount of $ i spent for relining. Hard to see down...like below the junction in what i assume is then"T". I dont think this stove has a cleanout, the outside of the lower part of the chimney is on the screened porch, and has siding around it. Anywho, looking down as best i can with the mirror, there doesnt seem to be much space down. Does look like there is some bug remains below that junction, im guessing 2-3 inches down. Do i have to try to get that mess out of there? (See, i told you i won't done with the stupid questions....)
I had a prof that would say that and then reply with "What a stupid question to ask." He was hated by everyone, well, maybe his wife loved him but I would have my doubts.
