Is the rural king cement the Meeco brand? Do you know anything about the Imperial? Thats what i can find around here...wondering if it's ok or if I need to return it and order the Meeco...? The lasting seal...can this be taken apart if needed for moving,cleaning or whatever? By half brick...is that what I'm referring to as the thin fire bricks? And what do you mean by "run of splits around the sides"? What is Durance cement? I will try to take a pic and post...getting one that shows up decent might be challenging.
Yes, Meeco. I find the imperial brand subpar. No grit/sand in it. Yes, can be dismantled. Like a soldier course, lining the walls one thin brick thick.
It was hard to get a pic showing the "crack" at the seam. You can see the light easier looking up into the stove, but the phone wouldn't capture it.
That doesn't look to bad at all. Pull the boot lay down a bed of cement and bolt it back in place. It should hold up for a while. I would prefer gasket because it will fix it for many years. But that crack is pretty tight. Cement should work ok
Glad you said how to do it, cause i was going to try to do it like it is...like pack/push it in there along the seam especially where the light is showing. Did I mention I dont know what I'm doing haha. I don't know what the consistency of the stuff is...but would be nice if it came in some kind of tube so could be used like caulk. Is there any kind of high temp silicone that could be used?
Not at those temps. A latex glove a little smearing are perfectly acceptable, especially if you intend to get at it from the inside.
Which one? One has insulating firebrick with very little thermal mass at all. Another has standard firebrick but only in the firebox which on a cat stove like that one does very little of the heating. The Fisher in my shop has standard firebrick but the mass of them is insignificant compared to the mass of the stove itself. The thermal mass of the brick is not enough to make a bit of difference the purpose of firebrick in stoves is to protect the metal of the firebox. Or to insulate some areas directing the heat to other areas where the designer of the stove wants more heat. Some stoves like bucks never had them and they seem to hold up well without them. I really see absolutely no benifit to adding brick to this stove when it was never intended to have them.
The walls of this stove taper in towards the back, so the bricks on the floor wont be but so good of a fit, which i dont guess will be an issue. Is there any problem with the bricks just placed up against the walls, other than they may tip over at some point? Not sure how they will work spacing wise, but maybe the side ones can sit on the bottom, so that the flat bricks help to hold them a bit.
Should there be gaskets all around the doors? Right now there is only the one piece on the right door, on the edge that overlaps the left door. Against the lip, where the doors meet the stove, it kinda looks like there is some residue, like maybe gaskets were there at one time.
If it seals well without gasket no it doesn't need it. If it doesn't you need to add gasket. It really doesn't look like there was gasket because I don't see a chanel for it. But that doesn't mean it couldn't benifit from some
Also are those andirons part of the stove or loose? If loose take them out this is a stove not a fireplace.
Checked the doors earlier with a piece of paper. Surprisingly a couple spots were tight. The bottom wouldnt have held a stack of dollar bills, so gotta do something. After looking at the manual for the Buck 26000/27000/28000, it is definitely a copy. The opening is about 21 inches (26000 = 18, 27000 = 20, 28000 = 24). Buch also says the damper is open when handle is pushed in, closed when pulled out. This stove is opposite.
I'm not saying that they aren't, but... the piece of gasket that is on the door lip that overlaps the other door ...I'm thinking this might throw it off a bit. And what I've read on the bucks, there is a different gasket on the bottom than what goes on the sides and top.