The stone bits that come with the attachment ground down to be useless after just one or two uses. BUT, the below diamond replacements have lasted me all season. And I don't mean all 5 of them, I mean ONE BIT, lasted me all last winter. In the spring, I finally threw the bit away, and grabbed a 2nd one. Can't beat it for $10. Get these if you have a 3/16" chain: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools...2623007&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+chainsaw+bits Get these if you have a 5/32" chain: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools...2623007&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+chainsaw+bits I guess if you stick the bit into the cutter and hold it there, you can easily grind off way to much. But I just stick it in, and pull it out 2 or 3 times for each tooth. I kind of get into a rhythm, and just push in and out while counting to myself in a cadence: i.e. "One .. two.. three..." where each number is when the bit was slid thru the cutter. I use the same tension as I go along, just a light pressure toward the cutter. It takes 2 or 3 minutes on each side of the chain. I'm 100% sure my chains are not nearly as precise as these professionals using grinders, but they come out super sharp and seem to last longer than when I was hand sharpening with a file. I always read here to only go one direction... but that never seems to work for me. Once I get the bit onto the cutter, I find it best not to lift it away until the cutter is done. That is why I do the one-two-three count, each tooth gets the same grind. I can't quite grasp how the grinder actually works? Are the wheels used very thin, and rounded on the end? In the pictures of them they seem to go into the chain on an angle, but how do you make sure the cutter is in the right place and you don't just grind off the top of the cutter? Is there some sort of stop for each tooth to hit / line or something??
The indexing pawl slips in behind the cutter... Then you lock the chain down.. I too, ordered one of these grinders to have a second to go with the Silvey and CBN wheel... Plus, it has a light on it...
ok, thanks. So does that kinda make it "idiot" proof? Meaning once you lock it down, you just drop the wheel down and grind, or do you still need to be "precise/coordinated" to make a good cut?
Idiot proof in some aspects.... But if not set up properly, can still do a less than stellar job... But yes, the control is better... Although I too like those diamond bits you refer to for quick touch ups... They do a very nice job if you're careful... And hold their shape!!
In case your guys are interested. Maybe it's junk? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1774864582&pf_rd_i=typ01
Yeah... That one's pretty awful... But you could get a chain sharp with it... Probably... If ya knew what you were doing...
Took delivery of my NT sharpener yesterday. Got it assembled and mounted up today. To be totally up front...I am not impressed... First thing I noticed, the hole in the shaft is not threaded parallel and concentric to the shaft. I didn't even bother throwing a dial indicator on it, it was that bad. I stripped the motor and will clean it up at work to make it useable. Plastic scatter shield does not even come close to fitting properly. Vise is not centered under wheel and lacks sufficient adjustment to center it. That is all I have found so far. I bought it for the sole purpose of grinding depth guides. I think it will work for such tasks once I get it straightened out. I would not use my particular machine for grinding teeth. Glad I went with the 511 for my first machine. YMMV...
The one I bought Northern Tool is no longer available(Item #193020 is no longer available), http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449 whether or not the one you have is made by the same company just a different color and renamed, I don't know. It looks the same but is it
Mmmm..... That's not good... I was going to the store & buy one today. Do you think it's just that particular machine or that model itself?
Well Nate got a bad timber tuff ,it fell apart ,he got it replaced and the new one is fine Plastic scatter shield didn't fit good on mine either but I got it to fit , that's the only thing I found a problem with
Since you have a store locally I would give it a shot. You can always return it. I had to mail order. In reality, I am pizzing and moaning an awful lot considering it cost less than a third of what my other grinder cost. For what I bought it to do, I think it will work.
I think you nailed it Dan. It's the best grinder you can buy for around $100. Beats the snot outta the plastic grinders and somebody who knows machinery could tweak one into a pretty decent grinder indeed. But it's not a $300 511 even tho that's the machine it copies, and sure as heck isn't on the same level as my USG.
Well, I bought one. I put it together, and promptly started sharpening. A little different than the other one I have (Foley Belshaw) I can't say that I'm proficient with either. But I know that it's still sharp after a tank though pin oak. I'm happy that I can now sharpen my own chains. My biggest issue with both is how the heck to adjust the stop for consistant cuts. I was always having to tweak to either get on it or back off it a bit. I guess that's a learning curve. But it seem pretty decent for firewood cutting.
I suggest if you're new to using a grinder that you download the 511A , manual. The same things apply, its just a much better instruction manual then the one you get with the NT grinder. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...HE00SA3raWyO6Yp8w&sig2=j8Jfk-JWeoDV4yf88UKdVQ