Newbie... Need Install Advice For Farenheit Endurance

Along with bugs, wasps, etc.

 

Ahh ok, I'll find something that's fits on the end and be done with that part.
I am trying to hunt down a cold air box for it but no luck!

 

I think I own that album!Will have to look!Too busy trying to kill an elk right now.

 

Going to have to post it again,older european pellet stoves had an air bleed system(gap between the air tube inside stove) to preheat the air AND to exchange the air in the living complex.This changed over the years,and their oak installations come with a built in flap valve,to shut off when stove is not running(otherwise stove acts as a convection unit and outside air cools down the inside of the house,same as a window air conditioner.They tend to live in smaller spaces and expenses are much higher.They are still way ahead of us in these fields.Cold air has to be heated to burn(less eff.)If your oak is very short you will burn more fuel for the same amout of heat(does not happen often,and if only happens a few times a year,means nothing).Also (while I am ranting)why do people not research and find out for a few dollars more they can buy a wall thimble kit that has OAK that fits in same hole?Have installed several,one hole less time less money?

 

Don't want to make a huge hole in concrete for a thimble. An oak hole in wood is a 1 minute job with a hole saw.
Preheated air is a plus, but not worth triple the price for a vent kit from selkirk. Even duravent has the pellet pro which is thimble and oak hole in one but expensive kit also.

 

What????? I think you need to re-think that one and do some research.

 

$130 for the thimble/OAK combo doesn't seem too bad, IMO.

http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/cart.php?m=search_results&search=3PVP-WTI

 

Thats a 3" thimble. I did 3" oak in hard pipe for $18

 

Any of you guys wrap the 10" duct in insulation? I am looking for a 10" sleeve of R8 or even a roll so I could wrap it.
Home depot and lowes nothing, Internet not much either. Is 10" not popular enough?
I have about 15 feet straight to extend the trunk so the furnace can hook into.

 

I wrapped the hot air duct in insulation on mine. I used something similar to the below.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-16-in-x-25-ft-Staple-Tab-Insulation-ST16025/100012574

Its not the highest R value, but every little bit helps.

 

Well maybe I did not state it properly,sorry.Cold air has to be heated to release ox.,therefore the eff. of heating unit is wasting heat to expand air making it less eff.This was discovered back in the early 1900's in europe which lead to direct vent technology,and as things have progressed you can find air preheaters for large heating devices for large heating requirements.Also why forest fire fighters pray for a cold night,knocks fire down.

 

Hey I did see that but the R value like you said was low. It's looks good, maybe if I leave the airgap with strips it will raise the R value as stated. I'll give it a try, it not much $$ to lose if it doesn't work. I rather put something than nothing. Do you think the cold air return should be insulated also?

 

I didn't bother with the cold air return. I can't see much benefit in insulating that, unless the room the furnace is in gets darn cold. I think the roll I bought was 4' long, but it was almost two years ago. I'd wrapped my 6" supply lines that run off the main trunk in the fiberglass duct wrap as well as insulated the hot air trunk that runs the length of my basement. I don't have any scientific measurements to prove that it helped, but the air "feels warmer" coming out of the ducts than it did before I insulated everything. Before I insulated it I taped/sealed all the joints. My house originally had electric heat (state of the art in 1959 I guess) and was retrofitted for forced air at some point in the 70s. I was losing a lot of air just in the duct joints alone. Those things helped make the most out of the 800 CFM blower that the Fahrenheit has.

 

I was thinking the same with the cold air line, but what made me second guess myself was the return lines from when the house was built are insulated. Maybe they had to be for code reasons.
For the 10" round, what width did you use, the 16" wide in the link?
Seems it would have to be 32" wide

 

I just cut strips long enough to wrap around the duct, then foil taped the seams. It's a 25' roll, so you'll have somewhere around 8 16" strips that you can cut out of a single roll.

You can get 4' widths also.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-4-ft-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-BP48025/100052556

 

Too early for the . T-minus 8 hours for me. Gotta go beg for candy with my daughter tonight. At least we'll be inside. The wind and rain has started here already, snow is supposed to be coming later.