No worries! I grabbed an aftermarket set off Amazon that has hoses already attached. If they don’t fit, I’ll replace the lines with some snowmobile fuel line I have up in VT. I have a few different diameters.
I'm pretty sure I have the same Wolfbox blower in my work van. They are a handy little devil that pack a punch. Amazon.com: WOLFBOX MF50 Compressed Air Duster-110000RPM Super Power Electric Air Duster, 3-Gear Adjustable Mini Blower with Fast Charging, Dust Blower for Computer, Keyboard, House, Outdoor and Car : Electronics
That looks like a great thing for cleaning a saw after using it. I use a paint brush and occasionally a good blow off with the air hose. Might need to get myself a new gadget?
Never thought of using one on a saw. May have to get the bigger brother for shop duty. Amazon.com: WOLFBOX MF100 Electric Air Duster-150000RPM Super Power Cordless Air Duster, Rechargeable Brushless Motor Durable Blower, 3-Gear Adjustable Dust Blower for Computer, Keyboard, Outdoor, House and Car : Electronics Or the much bigger brother. Amazon.com: WOLFBOX MF200 Compressed Air Duster with Removable Battery & 4 Nozzles, Cordless 3-Speed Adjustable Mini Blower for Computer Keyboard, Car Cleaning, Home, and Outdoor Use : Electronics
If any of y’all are in the market for front and or rear dash cams, Wolfbox makes pretty decent ones. Not trying to derail too far but I know the name from work. I’ve installed a few. I think I’m going to try out one of those blowers. Thanks enablers, .
Here’s what I cobbled together with one of the three vents (3 pack) I got from Amazon. they came with a much smaller hose that would not have fit over the tank. I ordered the OEM Echo one to see if that would fit on the hose better. I’ll see how this works for now. This was some spare snowmobile fuel line I had up north. 1/4” maybe? I’m a little rusty with sled line sizing.
I suggest jamming a small hose into the bore of the tank spigot, not the outside. It’s a bit unconventional. ETA what you show will probably work as long as you don’t bottom out the vent cap on the hose.
Thanks! I’ll give that a go! That one I bought came with a smaller hose that I should be able to install and get into the tank. I did put this one to the test…turned the saw upside down and sideways..no leaks. I did have another random issue today. I haven’t run the saw in two weeks. Started up today, gave it a few revs and it seemed to just kinda bog after 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. I opened the gas cap, no difference, pulled the tank vent…no change. Gave the H screw a 1/8th of a turn out…no change. May be time to pull the carb and inspect.
Very common in a saw that has been stored. Come out of the gate just fine. Next go, symptoms you describe. You'll probably find stiff diaphragms. IDK why, but it happens a lot. I would also see what you can remove from the muffler to let her breathe a little easier. Then you can tune fresh rebuilt carb to match improved flow in exhaust.
Thanks! I’ll let you know what I find when I pull the carb. I’ve been thinking about doing some work to that muffler too. Nothing crazy, maybe another port to let it breathe better.
Some have a baffle box, and some are an empty can, depending on age. There is plenty that can be done just modifying the exit area of the cover with a drill.
Here’s what mind looked like when I pulled the muffler. Basically, the front came off and this is what was behind it:
Look at the cover where the spark screen is. Some have 3 little holes. You can carve out the metal in between and end up with more of a slot. The bigger the better for flow. Or, as you say add another outlet.
Garage was smelling like gas a bit the other day. Looks like the tank may be leaking? I’m not sure…there’s still fuel in it and the paper towel I have under the saw had dried gas on it…not wet. More investigation needed.
Ok, a little progress..and sorta setback. LOL! I’m pretty sure the tank has a leak. I’m going to pull the handle assembly this weekend and inspect. The saw is hard to start. I thought it was flooding…but it’s not. A little shot of starting fluid and it lit right up. Also, the 1/2-3/4 throttle bog is gone! Revs out really good now. I had put some seafoam in the tank last time and ran the saw for a bit. Maybe that did the trick. So when I have it somewhat apart, I’ll take a look at all the lines. Seller said he replaced them all (they do look new) but best to double check.
Yeah, tough to say. All oem fuel and impulse lines are needed. That red lever style tank vent can be modified in a similar fashion to what you did. I sometimes keep the oem vent if it’s working. The tower vent (smaller plastic nipple) works well enough with the flapper valve installed. If you think you have a tank leak, go through it. It’s likely at a seam or the cap area. The cap itself could be a leaker, too. One can usually find the leak without separating the tank from the case. OEM fuel line (2 styles… if po owner updated then verify fit into tank, hole may be off a the grommet may not fit right), OEM impulse, tank vent as pictured but verify that it leaks air and not liquid, go through the carb and replace anything that’s stiff. I would personally kit it and start fresh. No more starting fluid… just a shot of mix but I don’t even do that anymore. fuel, compression, spark, bearings, air tight— in some sort of diagnostic order.
These 1121s can be finicky. From pesky crank seals, tank vents, and carbs to air filter issues… but worth it when they’re dialed in. Use an NGK BPMR7A 6703 non-removable terminal plug btw. Check wiring, clean around coil, and ensure a good strong spark.
This is great advice! What kit do you recommend? I’ve looked at the fuel leak and it appears it’s coming from the top/side area of the tank. It’s kinda wet behind the recoil area. Fuel cap seems OK. I really need to pull the handle and get a better picture on things.
Oem ideally. Not sure if you have a 194 carb but those are desirable. Stens is okay. Cheapest aftermarket have some problems but usually work for a while.