Welcome aboard SteveWest you have come to the right place! Lots of knowledge and wisdom here, some of it ancient (you know who you are). If you have a problem, we can help! Pictures Please.
So why are you suggesting I stay away from Oak? Is that due to how long it takes oak to dry vs. other woods?
Yes, my guess is your wood is marginal and oak takes much longer to dry than most hardwoods.. was trying to say focus on faster drying woods for next season..
First of all thanks for the warm welcome. I have read the primer you mention and it sure has a lot of good information. I have single level house almost 3,000 square feet. I am somewhat up in elevation and we get a good amount of wind. My guess is like you say my not having seasoned wood has caused me to burn more than I should. Also with this being a single level house and the stove toward one side of the house and in the back family room some of bedrooms on the other side get cold. The stove I have is made by the United States Stove Company and a model 2500 with a 2010 manufacturer date. One person I hired to come out and clean my fuel called it more of Tractor Supply basic wood stove. Perhaps upgrading my stove would be a good investment? I believe the 2,500 indicates that it supposed to heat a 2,500 square foot house so perhaps a little undersized? I initially paid someone to clean my flue but then found out I could disconnect the flue and clean it myself (from inside at the stove). I noticed when I hired a person to clean the flue they did go up on the rood and force the bristle cleaner down to the stove. What I didn't see this person cleaning the flue do is use up and down stroke to do a through job of cleaning the flue. I will try and post some pictures of my wood storage.
Welcome SteveWest , you’re gonna like it here, I guarantee it-we like pics, dogs and beer. We especially like spending your money on accoutrements to enhance your addiction, er, er, I meant hoard. You need or want something? Just ask, and we’ll enable you, its really that simple! Lots of great folks here willing to lend advice or a hand wherever possible. I would only impart that whatever storage method you employ, do your best to have it at least 1’ off the ground and face it south if you can...It’s all about air-flow and sunlight... Nice to meet you!
1. Dry I would say the moisture content is 15-20%. Seasoned below 15% perhaps high single digits? 2. First of all there is a face cord and a traditional cord. A face cord is whatever length the wood is in a pile that is 4 ft. tall and 8 ft. in length. The traditional cord is a stack of wood that is 4ft. tall, 4ft. in depth and 8 ft. in length. 3. Proper way to measure moisture content of wood is to split the wood you have and then immediately use a moisture meter on the split wood on the newly exposed portion of wood. I will be curious to see how well I did on these question. ;-)
You aced it pal! Just be ready to split a split when you think it might be near ready, just to ensure.
I have typically bought my wood but do have some trees on my property so have cut some of my own wood also . I don't have a wood splitter but can rent one locally and have done that in the past so my plan is to cut some wood up as time allows and then rent a splitter for a day. I recently bought a truck load of wood from a tree guy. He brought out mostly what looked like the large trunks of the trees so that will be quite a challenge. I think this same person will also sell traditional branches that I can cut in say 18" lengths and then split. I do hope to be able to produce more of my own wood.
You got that right-we set a record high last week here @81*-I’ll be cutting for 2021 in the morning at 17*- Glad to have you here on the best firewood site on earth...you will be amazed at the knowledge and kindness you will find here...
I have placed all of my storage up on cinder blocks. The wind on my property flows from the West and with the tree line basically going North and South I have set my storage going North to South.
Interesting points. That makes sense that it can be in a wood supplier's interest to have customers burning higher moisture wood since higher moisture wood requires more wood and thus can sell you more wood. Maybe that explains why my one supplier seems shocked that I would store so much wood. My plan is to try and keep my storage full and even build more storage. In other words when I have empty a cord's worth of storage then order another cord of wood or eventually be able to stock with wood I have cut and split.
My prevailing wind is also from the west...face your stacks south with air from underneath, leave it uncovered for 1 yr and you will be amazed...top cover in the fall of the next year-I defy traditional drying times, routinely, and post proof...I realize that depends largely on climate, species and overall weather patterns...I dry red oak in 1, white oak in 2...its all about exposure, air and sunlight...
No sir. 2 pallets fastened to 2 4x4's set on cap blocks for the floor, screw end pallets to bottom pallets, use 2 2x6's per end for upright legs, 2 2x4 cross pieces, 3 2x4's longer than rack and a few 2x4's across to fasten panels to. These racks are several years old and still work fine. If you are interested, I will get better pictures.
I was thinking the same. I would also look at insulation and air infiltration to see if you can cut down on the amount of wood used each year, that will help in storing more wood.
My BIL asked me this evening about the wood he hauled here. I told him even though that tree had been dead for a few years, it was still wet inside.
