New log splitter time, which way to go?

Up to seven stories.

 

Those things are beasts...if you wanna make that puppy really scream, take the 5" cylinder off and bolt a 4" on it, it'll still haul the mail even at half throttle! RuggedMade has a 4" cylinder with a 2.25" ram and would bolt right on there (even has 3/4" hose ports) the larger ram makes it even faster on the return stroke! That cylinder is only $279 (+ shipping) I used one on my splitter build that I just finished up...works great. (then they went n put them on sale for $199 right before Christmas! )
I ran that combo through a cycle time calculator and it come up to 5.2 seconds round trip (full stroke!) thats 3.1 seconds out, 2.1 back...wow! That would probably make some real heat if ran at full throttle for long periods at a time!
If ran at half throttle, I estimate that pump at 16-18 pm output, that would make for 8.2 - 7.4 second cycles...and here comes JR with a comment in 3-2-1

 

Well now sir I like the way you think! I always contemplate building my own splitter, but when I start adding up the supplies ans my time, it just doesn't make sense.

I think I'd likely be happy with the factory cylinder, but I can always put smaller ID cylinder on her.

 

Smart man...I just built one, starting out with an old 22 ton Huskee for the "bones"...it took WAY longer and more $$ than I thought for sure! But I did do some things that added cost, like upgrade the cylinder, I was planning originally to just drill out n weld 3/4" ports on the factory cylinder, but a $$$ quote from a local shop for that, and the decreased cycle time lure of the RM cylinder just sucked me right in...plus I added costs and complication by making it duel fuel (gas or electric) too...all in all I think I came in a lil north of $1500 and a ton of time...and that's with already owning a lot of the materials used.
Here's a link to the build if you are interested at all. In the end, if I had it to do over again, I'd wait for a deal on a big machine that already had the engine down low on the opposite side of the operators station, a big pump, and then just swap out the cylinder and build my log lift for it. Oh well, live n learn!
Hey buddy, will you give me a lift?

 

I'll look through your build.

Yea when I start adding things up, and with how particular I am I can see myself ending up spending 10k and a years worth of time. Sometimes you just have to keep things simple.

 

Yes. usually buildings with a few floors. They are slower.

 

We replaced my Country Line 25-ton that died in a fire New Year's Day 2022 with the CL 30-ton. I tend to run it around 3,000 RPM and it is plenty fast for my needs. I think my only complaints are the axle is too far forward in the operators area, the jack stand is overly complicated when moving it myself plus it is heavy. Looking at trailer dollies when I get a few dollars ahead.

 

I should add how well the Kohler motor starts. There have been times, even cold, when I will be slow pulling to find compression and it will still start right up. The oil does get warm, even hot, in the summer but I never really worry about it. The warmer out it is the slower I tend to move and for me this is enjoyment, not work. Somedays, I need to remind myself about the not work part.

 

I was already thinking of a smart azz response when I read what Andy wrote above.

Andyshine77 As far as the CL 40 ton. It's cycle time is the only reason I went that route. Although I got it a few years ago before the price hikes......and then got a 50% partial refund after I noticed some very light damage that doesn't affect it in any way. I was hoping for a couple hundred off, I was shocked when the store manager told me they could offer me 50% off or I could return it for another one. It was a no brainer. I ended up getting it for $800! It's now $2,700 by us.

 

I have a dr appointment in North platte Thursday, if that full boar splitter is still there it’s probably gonna get a ride to the Sandhills.
Not sure how to get it past the wife, but it’s easier to get forgiveness than permission sometimes!

 

My last motorcycle purchase appeared while my wife was on a vaca w/ my daughter.

 

It's tempting.......Chances are I would probably have to have some hyd lines made up though, as mine has some rigid lines, so they wouldn't work if the dimensions are not identical between the ports where I have those lines.
https://ruggedmade.com/welded-log-s...d-od-1-5-rod-end-5-rod-bolt-clevis-mount.html

 

Mine had a rigid line too...key word, had...
The only other issue was that on the Huskee cylinder the ports are at an angle, but on the RM they are right on top, so that affects how the valve handle is mounted...but that's nothing that a 45* fitting doesn't cure.

 

yeah, I saw that a couple years ago when looking into swapping cylinders.


That RM 4" won't work on mine without some extensive modifications to the mounting. My current cylinder is 34.5" from clevis pin c/l to wedge bolt c/l. That measurement in crucial, as it dictates where the wedge sits and extends to. That 4" RM one is only 32.5". So my wedge would be positioned 2" further back at full retraction and extension. My current one already stops 1" from the back plate (tip of wedge is 25" from the back plate), so this one would stop 3" from the back plate. The 5" bore, 3.5" rod one would work (if the rod fits into the wedge), but the gap at full extension would still increase to 1.75" vs the 1" it is now. Not ideal, but much better than 3"! The 30" ones are obviously way too long.

I just measured my rod diameter. It's 2.36" on a 5.125" cylinder (according to specs). This is what it says my cycle time should be. I have timed mine to a best of ~9.4 seconds back when I bought it. I'm guessing line losses and maybe not a full 25GPM is to blame.



If I were to do the 5" cylinder with a 3.5" rod, my cycle time would go down to a theoretical 7.4"...the majority of it being on the return stroke, due to the increased rod diameter. The 2.5" retract time is almost as fast as the 2.1" of the 4"/2.25" cylinder.

 

1"...3", meh, with all that oak you split the cylinder never goes out more than 6" anyways!

 

yeah, that is true a lot of the time, but it's very annoying when you need that extra 2" and it's just not there..........just ask all the women I've been with.

 

I'm going to look into a dump valve, as one of the first things I've noticed on my 40ton is how the engine is under load when being retracted. I see about 200-300 PSI at my gauge when retracting. Not nearly as much as this guy sees, but my engine is definitely under load when retracting. May help with hydro fluid temp and also fuel consumption.

 

As with many/most of the newer splitters, the wedge does not go clear to the foot...so if you are splitting something stringy, like elm, you need it to touch...so several people here have made blocks that simply drop onto the foot and take up the gap...some even have a notch for the wedge to go into so that the edge actually goes past the leading edge of the drop on block...I think T.Jeff Veal made one like this...see if I can find a pic...nope, no luck so far...

 

It would be even higher with one of those large ram cylinders too...