New Endurance 50f

Good to hear it finally came in.

 

Just doing a dry run on the vent pipe install to determine where to knock the hole threw my blocks and get final length of pipe needed as I will have to order one more piece to get outside. The Selkirk DT-M has a rubber seal inside joint so no RTV sealant is required at the joint seams. The appliance connector they sent me goes over the appliance vent not inside. I have two questions about the pipe. I know Ivanhoe has the DT-M so maybe he can answer for me. I think RTV sealant should be used on the connector
with a clamp to hold it on or am I wrong there. Question # 2 . There is 5 packs of di-electric grease and some alcohol swabs with the kit as well, is it for cleaning and lubing the rubber seal or ??????????? There is no mention of it in the instructions.
Let the games begin. Thanks in advance Old Fart

 

Thanks Dex that's what I thought. You would think Selkirk would kinda sorta maybe mention that.
O F

 

One more question. I picked up a tube of 100 % silicone. It does not refer it as RTV sealant but it does say its good to
600 degrees F. and a 40 year life. Could that be used to seal the joint.
Thanks again Old Fart

 

Thanks J. Just doing a dry run for now just to get final length that I will need. Man that DT-M pipe is expensive.
Just an up & out kit, a 3 ft length and a 12 in. piece $ 856.00 with taxes. Oh well you want to play I guess you pay.
Old Fart

 

True that I just spent $ 500 + for my new set up

 

I'm chiming in. The tube you picked up should be the kind of silicone that stays soft. Di - electric silicone is what you need. Rtv red caulking for fitting to the exhaust pipe off the furnace just like Dex mentioned. The piping through the wall should be one piece, I think I used a 24 inch one. Is the vent cap a hammerhead shark type?

 

Thanks to all for the replys. Yes the vent cap is a T type screened on both ends.
I am just using the sealant on the appliance connector and the inside cleanout T for the vacuum cleanout.
Maybe I will start to assemble today and possibly a Captain Morgan or two.
Old Fart

 

If you mean sealing the clean-out T cap with silicone, I'd advise against that. Might be impossible to get off for cleaning. I'd suggest wrapping the cap joint with foil furnace tape. Can be peeled off and/or cut with utility knife to get cap off.

 

This cleanout cap has a vacuum port built in with a screw off cap to attach a vacuum cleaner. Selkirk advises to seal the cap on for a air tight fit. But thanks for the advice.
Old Fart Time for a Captain Morgan

 

yes old fart both my dtm installs have hose clamps and rtv on the appliance adapter.

 

Expensive yes. You get what you pay for... I like the fact that it has the appearance of wood stove pipe.

 

For the T-cap outside and inside connection, what I did was not bend over the locking ring tabs but only slightly(you have to push down on the tabs to slide the ring over and the tab returns back to slightly bent up position which holds the ring in place) so to facilitate for numerous removals for cleaning. Bending the tabs frequently could mean broken tabs down the road. If you need a pic to explain it better, I'll try to take one tomorrow. The screw on vacuum connection, I left mine hand tight, no smoke leakage.

 

How far out the wall did you take the T-cap. I believe Selkirk says 7 inches minimum. But I have seen some right at the block wall.
My pipe will be going out beside an existing block chimney maybe 3 in or so beside it. It is on the North/ West corner of my house so I am thinking it should act as a wind break for the T-cap. Thoughts anyone
Gonna finish the pipe in the basement today and try to get the hole in the wall.
O F

 

I'll take a measurement soon, I'm still in my pyjamasy.

 

Thanks Ivanhoe. Minus 5 here in Eganville this morning. Whats the temp where you are.