Good looking stove, I've been waiting on the NC 30 deal to come up, I'm tempted to jump on this deal. Not sure what to do, I've not seen a 30 in person, looked at the droplet at menards
Good thing there is not a Menards around here. I would buy one at that price ($761), and I already own 2 of the Myriads. I don't just hoard firewood.
This was my quandary as well. I decided to take this deal because; a) it was on sale now (duh) and b) I feel like the stainless steel baffle might be (sure should be!) just a little more durable than the ceramic board in the 30 and I'm not always the one loading the stove.
Funny you should say this, I mentioned something similar to my wife last night. Her parents heat exclusively with wood and they're currently running a big old franklin style with a blower box on the top/back. It sits in the basement of their ~1500 sqft house down near Charles city, IA. It does a fine job of heating the small area but man do they chew through the wood. Anyhow, I suggested that us two and her other 5 siblings should go in on one of these to replace that old smoke dragon. I know it's something they'd never do on their own because they're really frugal and "the old one works just fine". The only challenge would be to duct some of the myriad's heat into the one register that the franklin currently feeds.
Prevents the handle from being removed by accident that's all. I thought I read where someone had there's start to wiggle loose and I'd hate to have that happen when I'm not around to put it back on.
My stove sits in the basement pretty much center of the house. Its in a Basement family room that is approx 700sqft. The basement family room is a part of the basement as the other part is my garage with garage doors. I keep my wood on two racks which holds about 5 to 6 large dual wheel wheel barrow loads. This is a staging area so the wood can get out of the weather for a while before I burn it. Who ever owned the house before I bought it , had a vent cut in the floor above as they once had a wood stove in the basement. When I moved into the house in 1990 I put in a energyking wood furnace and duct work, which I used for 14 years. Then I quit for 6 years as I got too busy with the kids. I then built the family room down stairs and needed heat down there so I went to buy a small stove and ended up with a medium sized Vogelzang Performer stove and realized it could heat the whole house. So bam I was back into heating with wood. Then last Febuary 2014 I ugraded to a larger stove the Drolet Myriad for those days of minus temps and single digits as the Vogelzang Performer at 2.12 cuft stove is a little on the small sized for my size of house. The Performer is a nice stove but if it got down to like 2 or 3 degrees or colder for a week or longer it was contantly being reloaded. One night I reloaded it 3 times from 4pm to 11pm and the house was only at 67 after all that as the outside temps at that time were minus temps and wind chills -30. But this Drolet Myriad at 3.3 cuft (3.1 usable) is a heck of a heater during these really cold temps. I recently had -15 temps and the house was around 70-72 when I woke up in the morning.
Ha Ha! I had the same difficulty, at 1st, remembering which way was open, or closed, on the bypass damper. I didn't think about chalk, so I just taped this to the wall.
Sorry about the pic clarity. This is the bypass damper handle on the Myriad. The male T just slips into the female cutout. Manual recommends taking the handle off after it is set each time. I think most of us with Myriads leave it attached. If it is attached you can visually verify that you closed the bypass after getting the stove up and cruising (including after you have gone upstairs and started wondering if you did close the bypass).
I read that part in the manual and I got a little worried that it could "accidentally" become detached while my wife and kids were running the stove and they wouldn't know whether it was open or closed. Rather than teach them another step in the process (putting the handle on and taking it off) I opted to semi-permanently attach it with a small hose clamp around that tee portion. That was the other mod I was referring to in my subtle post
Wonder what the reasoning is for that? I'd leave it on. Too easy to get misplaced, or banged up by taking off and putting back on. Seems silly not to have just made it solid from the git go.
I'm thinking the removable factor made sense for transporting it but I agree; why put that in the manual?
They don't say why. It does rotate easily, and it has a pretty brass spring on it. Dog, cat, child, etc., could decide to play with it? They just provide this caution. CAUTIONS: • NEVER LEAVE THE REMOVABLE HANDLE INTO THE SMALL ROD EXTENSION UNLESS YOU ARE BUILDING A FIRE OR RELOADING THE UNIT.
I've been documenting burn times and loads over on another thread in case anyone is interested: http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/brought-a-load-in.10747/
Has anyone setup some sort of primary air control measuring device? I'm contemplating either hanging a pointer off the ash tray down close to the rod or a piece of tape measure attached to the bottom of the tray (with a magnet probably) extending out parallel with the rod. I've also been thinking about sliding a piece of small pipe over the rod and attaching that to the stove then mark the rod at various intervals, maybe with different colored paint sticks? This is mostly for being able to tell the wife and kids how to run the stove i.e. as the flue temp gets up into such and such range push the air control in to this setting. With as sensitive as the air is on this stove (which is very cool) I don't really like the generalization of 1" from the spring to the ash tray sort of instruction.
