I was downright disappointed after the first tank on my 362C but after 6 tanks it is pretty mean. I think it has stopped getting stronger...but I'm very happy with where it ended up. Wonder what's different about the 241?
Congrats on your new saw purchase, glad you like the new purchase! I still debate and try to wrap my head around the whole break-in and performance gain of a new saw. Main theory is the seating of the rings. Not sure with close tolerances and lack of aggressive deep honing patterns that is as critical. With that said, I just finished a complete bottom to top build of a Jred 2171 and compression is hovering around 130 PSI, I'm going to pull a compression test on it with every tank of fuel and see what the results are. I'm not running it wide open for long periods but not exactly babying it either. Just have set it rich and running it. Question for others on the board, with a new saw, run synthetic oil or regular? The first tank through, I am running non-oxy 91 with Stihl HP ultra (Grey) bottle. I think the second tank I am going to run the orange label Stihl Oil. I think going forward in the future, the ability to run a saw rich during break in is a thing of the past with auto compensating fuel systems.
What bar/chain are you running on that. I was hoping that it was going to accept the "3003" bars so that I could run 16" 3/8 x .05 picco on it. I just bought one for my 024/026 that I was hoping to migrate to a 241. The Stihl site doesn't have any info that I can find detailing it.
Nice saw I was in the dealer the other day and had a chance to fondle all the mtronic saws. The 241 was impressive, felt a lot like an 026. Every time I pick up a 261 I can't believe how heavy and bulky it is in comparison -- not what I'd want for a small saw.
Im just running the stock setup right now, 16" 3/8 picco .050, PS chain. I have the stock(PS3) chain, which felt really good and I also tried the PMC too. Im very content with the setup I'm using. My only gripe is tat the chain gets dull quicker…. then again, the wood i was cutting was a little dirty in spots. Might try the the .325 setup down the road.
No special hoops for breaking in a new saw or a new top end. It will wear in on its own regardless of special treatment. I would avoid running it WOT with no load for longer than a couple seconds but other than that...... Run it like you would run any other saw you own. You are right that newer equipment with tighter manufacturing tolerances, chrome or nikasil plated cylinders, and much better fuel management systems pretty much do away with any elaborate "break-in" routines. I have several engines now that I have broke in on very high quality synthetics (the theory that they are "too slippery" is just as ridiculous as it sounds) . Everything from chainsaws and trimmers up through my trucks. Have an '89 C3500 with a Big Block Chevy that I run synthetic in and it hasn't sprung a leak or otherwise given trouble that you hear as reasons not to switch an older engine.