Why would Cub Cadet, ala MDT, put holes on the inadequate log cradle and not offer to sell you at an up charge a sufficient log cradle? I’m going Lone Wolf I think and the Cub is for sale...I don’t deal well with corporate fraud..My splitter is adequate, not ideal...don’t buy Cub Cadet
Iron and Oak (Brave) is a solid company but has gone through some ownership changes. Made in the States, parts are available, and there are well-defined models for each type of use (homeowner to pro). Their splitters are some of the best around and have a design that just makes sense. The MTD splitters like the one pictured are a variation of that design; full beam, pushplate/wedge bolted with spacers, etc.
I agree BuckthornBonnie, Iron and Oak has a strong reputation as a manufacturer of very solid splitters-Lots of good ones out there and some just middle of the road like everything else. Hope you and yours are well.
This is what I’m working with now. It gets the job done. I pull it up on car ramps and set the front on a log. It won’t start at the moment, I doesn’t seem to be getting spark.
I have to look at that. There is a label that says it will cut off if the oil is low. There is oil in it. I’m not sure where the switch is.
If you can wait till black Friday, thats when you get the best deal at Tractor Supply. IIRC, they'll knock 150$ off.
There should be a yellow wire coming out of the side of the block...just unplug that (I think) There are tons of these engines in service, I'm sure if you google around a bit someone has posted how to bypass the switch if unplugging that wire doesn't work. Obviously you have to keep an eye on the oil level the old fashioned way if the switch is left disconnected...
I think the oil switch just goes to ground to kill the ignition just like the kill switch. Tape the wire end so it doesn't accidentally get grounded someway.
It does, yes...but it also goes through a module that put a delay on the signal to eliminate the engine cutting out every time you hit a bump...those modules will fail too...I think those can be unlugged to test too, but not positive...they used to be cheap to replace, but who knows now, haven't priced one in many years. Then there are some engines that have a 2 wire oil switch...I think one is ground in, and then the other switched ground out, but again, not sure, best to verify with googlefoo... The good thing about it is that the ignition system on these engines is simple and not that expensive to replace components if needed.
So, I found out why my splitter wouldn't start. There was a wire chewed off from the coil to the cut off switch. Dang mice!
While all of gods creation have there place on earth I feel mice have been put here to try mans patients! I hate them!
