Will have a little while before I can get me another saw. It be after this deployment sometime next summer. So hope it will be being sold in the US when I get back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Forgive my ignorance, but is revving - bliping the throttle just a cool thing or is there a reason behind it? I always thought cold revving an engine was a bad thing. I don't really get into the "saw videos". It could be something simple I'm missing. Is the release to the US behind other regions just a beta test? Soft opening? Again I don't follow much but I am interested.
If you're referring to the 562xp being hard to start...I really despised mine at first for the same reason, always took a lot of pulling and often times I had to blip the trigger a bit while pulling with my other hand to get it going....really ticked me off, I just about swore the saw off completely! I found that you really need to follow the startup procedure to the T and it fires up quick everytime. The Stihls you just lock that little trigger in place, fire it up...and after a few seconds of higher idling I blip the throttle and it drops down to normally idle and good to go. The Husky you need to pull that red button out and up, pull it once or twice till it sound like it wants to fire....then without touching your throttle trigger just push the red button down one click, and pull it again...fires right up for me everytme on a high idle. Give it a few seconds then blip the throttle to drop it to a normal idle and its good to go. Now that I got startup down Ive grown to absolutely love the saw...significantly more juice than my 261c and handles great. I still use my 261c anytime Im clearing stuff or doing cuts while moving in the woods etc...but if Im at my stationary firewood pile bucking it up its alwayas me 562xp now.
That's not me in the video, but I do ocasionally blip rev the throttle between cuts when I'm cutting firewood. When I do it I'm listening for the saw to 4 stroke to ensure the fuel mix is still spot on. It's something that can change as the air filter loads up causing the saw to run leaner. I'm also loading the bar with extra oil. Further a saw runs cooler when not under load so the revving between loads has the minor benefit of providing additional cooling between cuts. As for the delayed US release I think it has a lot to do with selling off old stock of the models these two saws are replacing more than anything. The 572 in particular has been in beta testing for several years already.
That is just one of many complaints on that saw. Being a rattle box is another, with many bolts actually falling out of it. But my biggest complaint is just the lack of power. It just has no power and I run all my saws with 18 inch bars and nothing bigger because I seldom cut big trees here. They told me when I bought it was a "disposable saw"; buy it for $750, run it for a year, trade it in for $350 towards a new saw and rinse and repeat. In that regard they are right. $750 is a lot better than $1100 for a MS461 Stihl price wise, but it is not the same saw either. Live and learn, but I will wait until the MS462 Stihl comes out and then dig through the brush pile to find the !@#$%^&*( saw to trade in.
I cant believe anybody at all, let alone the guy selling it, would tell you its a "disposable" saw...thats completely ridiculous. Even a cheap Poulin from a box store isnt a "disposable" saw, let alone a pro-level Husqvarna. I honestly think you might have just gotten a dud...pretty much everything else Ive read about the 562xp is positive and mines been great. Im not a pro-logger by any means...just a firewood cutter/land owner, probably have about 12 cord on the 562xp so far and its been great. To suggest you buy it for $750 and sell it for $350 a year later is insane...$400/year to own a junk "disposable" saw? I bet I'll have mine for 20+ years...$37.50/year to own makes more sense to me. And infact, I paid $649 for mine ($699 - $50 rebate from Husky) so my cost of ownership will be $32.45/year
I totally agree here. Same 2 saws, and same usage. The hot start issue got me early on in ownership, but learn how to properly start it and that has not been problem anymore. It has plenty of power for most tasks, but I have on occasion been in some bigger hardwood where a bigger saw would be nice to have. So if the new 70cc offerings from Stihl and Husqvarna ever hit our shores it will be a tough choice.
I knew it wasn't you! Yeah but they are mtronic/autotune. So that leaves only the bar oil idea. Is the 461 really going to be replaced? Or will they still be sold together?
Yep same here, I have a lot of firewood I buck where a 70cc with a 28" bar would be much appreciated. From what Ive seen/read I'll go with the 462c over the 572xp...only thing that might change my mind is either a huge price difference (which I doubt they'll be) or if the 572xp is available many months before the 462c. I suspect they'll both be released pretty close to each other and I'll most likely go with the 462.
Not sure why yours is low on power. A 562 is arguably the fastest 60cc saw currently made, possibly only giving up the space to a dolmar 6100.
I've had mtronic saws run lean from a clogged air filter in dead dusty hardwood. Sthils seem to be more prone to this with their inferior prefiltration. In fact my ms201 was acting up just the other day. Sure enough clogged air filter. The reving blip between cuts allowed me to hear something wasn't quite right. Any number of things could happen to cause an auto tune saw to run outside the autotune parameters. With the price they charge for these saws I'd rather be smart than sorry.
I would have to go back and check my records to see the exact date I bought it, but I think it was like a year ago. I stopped logging in January, so I would not have much more than 160-200 cords of wood cut with it. It should have had the bugs worked out of it by then, and really running strong. I think the point the dealer was trying to make though, was that it was a glorified pulpwood saw, but not really for saw logs. He said most people buy that saw though over the 572 because of the cost and just put up with the lack of power. That was the point in the conversation where he mentioned it being a disposable saw. I would agree with that, it would make for a pulpwood saw with its low weight, snappy feel, and the fact that with pulpwood it is never out of your hands. With logs, it just is not quite got the ponies to saw its way through the log, and whenever a person sets it up on the log to take a measurement on log length, that !@#$%^&*( saw, and its side-heaviness, makes it flip over off the tree and into the brush. I REALLY HATE THAT! Again, with pulpwood, a saws balance on a tree is not a big deal because you do not have to buck the tree until you are out on the landing. It would make a good woman's saw though!
LodgedTree, WTF is a woman's saw? Man or woman the weight vs. power thing for a particular application is exactly the same. If a particular saw model has the power you need for your application and is the lightest in that size, it is the one that you want.
I whole heartily disagree with this statement. That is because with logging; applications change constantly. Even with the removal of one tree, the applications are far different. To wit: ideally I would want a powerful, long bar to fell a big diameter maple, BUT even that same big maple tree does not require a long bar and big powerhead to limb. In fact, ideally a smaller, lighter saw would be ideal due to fatigue. But after the tree is limbed, measured for logs and then bucked, a long bar with big powerhead is required. Now add other applications like firewood versus logs, pulpwood versus studwood, softwood versus hardwood, or logging with frozen wood versus that of logging in the summer. Some of this stuff can be mitigated by adjusting the method used to sharpen the chainsaw chain, and raker height, but the application is still different. A person could use a big, small and medium sized chainsaw to do all that, and many, many people do, or a one-chainsaw-person like me can try and find one saw that gets close to matching all those applications. Neither style of logging is wrong. I do not have room on my skidder/tractor/bulldozer to stash another saw, and we all know I run over enough chainsaws as is. FOR ME...I require high power all the time. Even limbing; I want to hog through limbs so that I am not constantly pinching my bar which happens with less powerful chainsaws. And please, please, please do not say "with proper technique a limb should never pinch a bar" because everyone reads the tension on a limb wrong from time to time. When it happens, I want to power through it, not be trying to wrench my saw free from its grip. Limbing 40 trees a year...it is not that big of a deal, but limbing 70 trees a day...it is. Obviously bucking and felling require power as well. FOR ME: the 562 Husqvarna fails miserable. It lacks power, so it fails at about everything I want it to do: Fell, limb and buck. It also has other shortcomings like side to side balance. I do feel strongly that when people recommend this saw, they are doing others a disservice. While I take responsibility for buying this chainsaw, I do regret buying it, the only chainsaw I ever felt that way about. Granted it was only a $750 saw, but it performs like a $450 one.
Sounds like theres nothing wrong with your 562xp...the issue is you just chose the wrong saw. Obviously a 60cc saw isnt enough for your needs so I wonder why you purchased it in the first place? I would have thought someone who regularly limbs 70 trees/day would be experienced enough to know what size saw he needs for his purposes...? I still can't get over how you keep saying its "only" a $750 saw too...$750 is at the upper end of saw prices. Sure there are $1000-$1100 saws of course, but $750 isnt like saying it was "just" a $300 Home Depot saw...$750 is a lot for a saw. With the amount of cutting you claim to do Im really surprised you didnt know you needed a bigger saw...and instead of just owning that you messed up in your saw selection you constantly bash the 562xp itself as inferior. The 562xp has the exact same power as a Stihl 362c...its a 60cc saw and a great one at that. I wouldnt go buying a battery operated saw then go on and on about how underpowered it is when Im trying to buck through 12 cord of hardwood each year... All about selecting the right tool for the job, sounds to me like you just selected the wrong tool.
Yes and no... I wonder if the Stihl 362 rattles the bolts off itself so bad I had to replace many nuts and bolts, and locktighted as many others as I could. I wonder if the Stihl 362 is a bear to start when it is warmed up? (Hence the name ForeverCrank of the Husky) I wonder if the Stihl 362 is so unbalanced that it constantly topples over when sitting on a tree? I wonder if the Stihl 362 has more down bottom torque so it can power through a cut unlike the high rpm, low torque Husky. I do not own a Stihl 362 so I do not know that saw at all, but the point is, my complaints with the Husqvarna 362 are many, and are based on shortcomings on many chainsaw quality points. It is easy to turn this around and say, "shame on you, you cut a lot of trees and should know better", but really that is only partly the case. I fully admit I bought the saw based on price under the disposable mentality that my dealership portrayed. But I also proport that cutting so many trees, I know chainsaws. This is a firewood site, so I fully respect the firewooder who was using a Stihl 029, buys a 562 Husky and is blown away by its "power". But in the hands of someone who demands a lot out of his chainsaw; fit, function, power, balance, and longevity, this saw is an utter failure. I am cutting it some slack recognizing that it is a cheap $750 saw, but by your own reasoning of price, it should do all these things exceedingly well. I wonder how many people even noticed that when sitting it down, it constantly topples over? Few I bet, but many will take note of that annoying trait now. Go back through my posts over the last year. My complaints against the 562 Husqvarna started since I bought it, and on all these points.
if you cant figure out why a saw has hot start problems which you seem to say everytime you post something maybe you should quit crying and trade the saw in and buy a older model i have 4 mtronic saws and probably a total of 50 saws about 15 that are ported so are you gonna put my opinion down like you did the other guys ? i am not a husky fan but you really seem like you need a bottle and a towel
I have owned both the ms362 and I still own a 562xp. Both saws have about the same power, with maybe a slight edge going to the 562. When it comes to ballance and handling, without question the clear winner is the 562. The early 562's had slippery screws that could back out, this was fixed within the first year of manufacturing. That said I've had had start issues as well in hot weather, the carb box area gets way too hot, and causes vapor issues in the carb and fuel lines, pizz poor design. The saw was never tested in the heat and a range of fuels. Cutting some breathing holes in the cover, and some heat shielding alleviated much of the hot start issues I had. When running correctly I much prefer the 562, but in the end I believe the 362 will likely be a more durable saw.
