I cleaned the flywheel. Put the recoil on and took the spark plug out so I could feel better. No problem at all with repeated pulls. Put the spark plug back in and the saw would jerk off the floor with me pulling the recoil; same old problem there. Shouldn't be doing that; so with a used OEM recoil, I think we can rule out it is the recoil; two recoils doing the same thing? The new recoil should not be binding like it is doing; It did it again so off it came again. I think the spring is binding the spool in some way; also noticed the rope is 1 1/4 inches shorter than on the old; so that may be leading me to pull the rope to the limit. Can the flywheel be causing this; need MasterMech to chime in here. I can turn the flywheel by hand with the spark plug in place; yes, compression comes up tight but I can turn it by hand; which makes me think it is not an internal problem with the saw. I don't have money to ship the saw off at this time; remember that is a double shipping fee to and from.
Is it possible that your "beast" just has so much compression that you are just coming up against that right at the beginning of the pull, before there is enough momentum to push up to and then past TDC? I've had that happen on older Honda ATVs that were pull start...when that happens it pulls the rope handle right out of your hand, and it HURTS! Even Worse was a 350cc 4 stroke with kick start...if you didn't kick through to just past TDC before giving it a "all or nothing" kick, you were done. Even worse than that was a 500cc 2 stroke with kickstart...screw that up and it would blow right through the sole of your boot...or bend your steel arch support! OUCH! Anyways, try pulling the rope slowly and gently until the piston is to, or just past TDC (top dead center...or piston to the top of is stroke) and then give it a good pull to attempt starting it...it may be you have to do this on each pull? I would think this would be more of an expected problem on a larger saw though...
In case I decide to send the new USED OEM recoil back, I am not going to mess with it. I will remove the damaged pawl in the old recoil and put it back on and see if I can continue to use the s If it was this way from the beginning, then I would never have thought anything was amissed. It did not do this last year when I used the saw. My friend first noticed it very early this year and then I noticed it when I tried to start the saw. It would seem to pull hard once or twice and then pull normal. It got progressively worst over time this year as I used the saw.
Is it possible that the saw with use has gotten cleaned out(free up the rigs??) or more carbon around the rings and now may have more compression than when you got it? I don't know at this point it to me just sounds like it's up against the compression stroke and your yanking it? Have you tried drop starting it if you starting it on the ground with a foot on it? How old is this freinD that also has the trouble? Where do you live and do we have a saw nut member close by on here or OPE?
I don't think so, as I said, I can turn the flywheel by hand; it does not feel like it is binding in any way. No, I am starting the saw as the manual instructs and the way I did when I first got the saw. No, I don't start saws by drop starting; I like to put the saw on the ground/floor, put foot on rear handle and then press down on the top/front handle so the saw is good and stable. I slowly pull the rope out until I feel the pawls engage the flywheel then pull so the engine turns. I don't know my friend's age but he is a grown man. He has used saws before and he started the saw last year before we noticed the problem; so he had a history of using the saw before the problem started; he was the first to bring it to my attention early this year. Southside Virginia.
Turning a saw slowly by hand does not give one the full compression of it as it bleeds off. The rapid pulling is what really builds the compression. I start a saw between my thighs with my legs locked around it usually. This is an a proved method of starting safely. But I will drop start them sometimes. I can get way more powerful of a pull standing up with the saw between my legs than on the ground. I can have one yank around like you talk about from the ground if your not commited.
So going back over the problem we have a saw that were pretty sure has no mechanical failures or issues with the actual piston rotating in the engine, as verified by it running well, turning it freely by hand and easily spinning when plug is removed. Original recoil assembly started to jerky the saw around when cranked maybe 25% of the time. New starter pawls did not correct the issue, nor did a new (lightly used OEM) recoil off ebay which the same issue persisted. Ebay recoil also appears to have a secondary issue going on with rope rewind but this is not affecting the Original issue? I mean I am at a loss here. But from the sounds of it both people who are experiencing these issues possibly have very little experience with a larger saw ...correct me if I am wrong here? And this saw is considered a medium sized "farm/ranch" saw, not even large or close to it. But they do have way more compression than small saws usually found at stores like walmart and bigger than most of what someone would buy at lowes for less than $400. I am almost ready to pay for that saw to ride to MasterMech house!! Or heck even mine. But I do not claim to be an expert but I have pretty much fully disassembled my 1127 saw and think I am at least OK with them.
As I said, I started the saw many times after I got the saw; this saw was the one gifted to me. I cut a lot of wood with it last year with no problem starting the saw. This saw was a charm to start. So I do have a history with the saw even though not an experience saw user as such and do know that this saw did not do what it is doing now when I first got the saw. The problem started early this year; my friend had also used the saw before the issue started and knew that it use to be easy to start; he mentioned it to me the first time; we were working together. So it is not just me or the fact that I may not be as strong; my friend is a man and he noticed it as well. I hauled wood after the last post here; I did not return to working on the saw today. Thinking of setting the new used OEM aside as I may be sending it back since it is binding up.
Take it to a local shop, get an estimate before you leave it, or spend 50 bucks, for shipping, send it to someone to fix, or punt
I thought the same thing. Most shops will take it hand it to the tech and he will say it's probably this or that. And give you an idea of cost. You can tell them that you have 2 different recoils that do this so that pretty much rules out the recoil. Kimberly. Make sure you have that seller pay the return ride or send you a label. It's not your fault that thing is defective and you should not have to sort that issue out.
Maybe there is something wrong with the used one, you could try the aftermarket one from whoever it was on here that had it, they will probably test it to make sure it was working for you. At this point I'm not sure anyone can help you on here, without having the saw on the bench
Do you have a scale that will weigh down to a few ounces? I'd like you to weigh that saw and I will get you a shipping estimate to New York or here to SC. No need to weigh the bar and chain with it.
I will try to get a weight and see what shipping boxes the USPS has; maybe some of their larger flat rate shipping. The only other shipping here is FedEx from Martinsville; it is actually a print shop that also has a FedEx drop off. I would rather have someone on here that knows saws work on it because I trust you guys; I don't know about the local shops.
I seriously was thinking an unofficial go fund me thing here...ha! But seriously. There so many of us that want to see this thing run again.
I really like my saw; I was so proud when I got it that I took it to a BBQ that my sister gave and showed it off