MS290 starting issue

I am stihl dealer and i use my wifes or my brothers name for selling on ebay ................. just saying

who can control if this part is on ebay from a stihl dealer

 

Well I guess no one can but if someone turns dealer in it won't be good. So most dont.

 

No spark on The Old Girl. Dang it. I wiped out the cap but still no spark. The distributor is original and needs rebuilding, bushing is worn etc. I put new condenser and points last year but the distributor needs rebuilding. I think the shaft is worn and the bushing; it was hard to set the points gap. I will have to pull the distributor and check things out. Don't look like I will haul any wood today.

 

Is there a way I can test this?

 

This was not on ebay but a company's website that sells parts for all kinds of saws.

 

Points are probably dirty... with the key on, take a "jumper" wire and touch the bare ends to both sides of the points (this simulate the points contacting) with the coil wire pulled out of the distributor and placed ~1/4" from anything metal that would be "grounded" (not the carb or fuel tank! ) when you pull the jumper wire off the points you should see 1 single spark at the coil wire. If so, the points are dirty, cleaning them may be as simple as letting the points snap close on a dollar bill (or 100s...what evah you has in your pocket ) then pulling it out...do this a few times using a new "clean" spot on the bill each time. The reason for using cash money is that it is lint free...lint in points ...bad
If the points are too hard to get to you can just use the jumper wire to "ground" the negative (-) side of the coil when the key is on...you should get the same single spark from the coil wire each time.

 

The clear problem with this saw is it has the wrong stickers on it, find some 291 decals and it'll run like a champ

 

Funny you should mention this; I would have to change the decal if I brought an aftermarket recoil; The Stihl MS 290 logo must be there.

 

It appears the condenser is bad. I have been looking for an old one I had but unable to locate it. It was not in the box of parts for the 8N. I may just order a whole new set points and condenser. The bushing replacement will wait if I can get it running again or I may just order them as well and get it right all at once.

 

Do it all at once. No sense. To fix it now to brake down in a year or so unless you just can't put the extra time in

 

If she found a $37 or whatever OEM part and is sure this is the problem I'd have that thing on order already!

 

Yes

take off the recoil cover , from the bar side take off the sprocket the sprocket bearing and the spark plug , leave the clutch

then conect a 19 mm socket in a battery screw driver and put this to the clutch and give some runs for some seconds or minute in slow rpms

if something inside the saw is not good you feel the battery driver to have dificulties to run the all system ( crankshaft , clutch , etc etc )

 

ohh i forget if you dont like from the clutch side you can do it from the flywheel side with a 13mm socket its the same

you decide

good luck with your saw

 

With the plug out she should be able to just use a wrench as well vs. using a cordless drill. Some saws you can skip all that and just use your hand to turn the flywheel. You want to be feeling for any drag or slop/play. It should turn smooth like butta.

Edit: All moot as this is a recoil issue. Saw wouldn't be running right otherwise.

 

Yes, that is what I was thinking, there is play on the spool/pulley/what ever you call it. How much should it wiggle?

 

Yes, thanks for reminding me; I did do that by hand without any problem.

 

Found the old condenser, no go. I did use cheap after market points and condenser so thinking of heading to NAPA and get some quality parts. Of course I need to address the leaking tyre. She no sparkie like she use to do. Check the coil and that appears to be good, voltage where it should be, etc. Guess if I haul any wood it will be with the hand trolley which is a ways to pull through the woods.