Precisely.When potential buyers come to my house to see stuff I listed on CL,they can look at it on enclosed front porch or in the front yard if weather is decent.I don't allow anyone over after dark,phone calls after 8PM or inside the house/shop at any time.
Just the voice of experience here but I'd do a 41" or similar sized setup with full width drawers if I were in your situation. I will take wider/deeper drawers over lots of smaller drawers anyday. Make sure at least a couple of them are deep enough to handle the bulkier items in your collection and consider ordering extra slides for any drawer that will be extra heavy, like a drawer full of sockets. Edit: if you have the room for a 54" box like mine and want to utilize the top of it as a workbench, then that's a pretty sweet setup for the home user for sure.
I had a red 721/722 top and bottom combo (KRL) and traded it for a KRA classic 96, my old KRL was much heavier duty than the newer classic 96 I got. Sold that for a smaller top and bottom. I traveled for years and when I wasn't playing with saws or cars, bought tools.... had this... thats good advice, until you acquire more stuff, and need to add lockers and side cabinets... lol work box, Started off..... with this repo box for 1500 bucks... 42" wide, bottom was hit by a forklift, I replaced one drawer and pounded out some dents. can't tell other than one scratch that I touched up between the locks. all the stickers are on magnets... learned that over the years trading in boxes.... am a green junky, so traded even up for this to match the one I had at my home shop: 72" long 24" deep. wasn't enough room.... had the same green box at my father and I's shop, but when I had credit problems trying to buy a house, traded it in for a KRL1022. 54" wide, 30" deep. I had everything from the 72" long box in this box with two totally empty drawers.... amazing how 6" extra depth makes a difference. Then i added an end cabinet, top hutch and locker... lol and will probably get the top cabinet to match the hutch, but short section with drawers.
As a retired mover my advice is to either hire a moving co. or get a hand truck with pneumatic tires and a strap and ONE other guy and just do it. Too many people hinder rather than help. That thing can't weigh over 300 pounds and I have done that by myself, it was not even close to fun but it can be done.
most snap on boxes weigh between 600 and 900lbs empty. Not something I would recommend with one guy and a pneumatic tire-d dolley down a hill with steps.
Your not trying to move this thing fully loaded are you? Those boxes at HF you can move easily with a hand truck or take up hill in pieces. Or remove the drawers like others say.
I bought my husband a very small Craftsman version of the pics above. Most his tools remained on walls above his tool bench. It's quite convenient for me too when I need one, I can find it easier than looking in drawers. Just a thought.
At work, I'm not allowed to use toolboxes. We have to shadow board (peg board) everything and quite honestly, I don't know any of our mechanics (including me) that think it's an efficient way to work unless you can bring the work to the bench. But your point on it being easier to find tools if you are not familiar with your hubby's toolbox is exactly why we have to use the boards. We also can see what is missing at a glance without opening a bunch of drawers. One major downside to shadow boards is they take up space. Most home garages have wall space to spare but you can organize a lot more tools into a much smaller area with a toolbox as opposed to a peg board.
Well, last week I found a good deal on a Snap-On Classic 78 being unloaded by a kid who'd switched from auto body work to carpentry. I brought it home on a U-Haul trailer and left it in the garage for a few days. An ugly weather forecast prompted me to attempt getting it up the hill this morning, and it went so quickly that I didn't even have time to take pictures of the process. I bought two 3" aluminum sheave blocks from Harbor Freight, to use with a 100' rope that I already had. Lacking a better anchor point at the top of the first hill, I used one of those steel corkscrews meant to hold a dog's leash, screwed into the lawn. I hooked one sheave block to the corkscrew's post, and tied one end of the rope to the corkscrew's eye. The other sheave block was hooked to a shorter rope tied between the casters on one end of the toolbox. The long rope went from the corkscrew, down the hill, through the sheave on the box, back up the hill to the other sheave and then back down the hill again. With that I was able to walk behind the box, simultaneously steering and pulling, and I made it up that lower incline all by myself. By the time I made it up the first slope, two neighbors had spontaneously offered to help. We pushed the box across the more-or-less level part of the yard to the bottom of the second, longer incline, and I set up the rope and sheaves in pretty much the same way. This time all I had to do was haul on the rope, while my neighbors pushed and steered. They were able to walk that box up the hill (roughly a 30-degree slope) like they were pushing a grocery cart through the produce department. I think I'm going to store the sheaves and rope in my car's tool tray (with the spare tire) so I have it with me when I'm out cutting wood. Those things are really handy.