And all of those components are built to the OEM manufacturers spec. Just because both engines say Briggs on them and appear similar, does not mean they are equal. The same is especially true with the transmissions. The frames on the Deere's are a fully welded piece. The frames on a Cub/Troy/MTD machine were held together in several spots with large self-tapping sheet-metal screws. Please never use that deck wash system. Ever. The rest is fluff. The turning radius is interesting. Unless it's more than 2" or so however you are unlikely to notice a difference in actual operation. Turning radius is a 2 part equation with a mower. Both the actual radius and a second spec, seldom advertised are equally important. The "uncut circle" left by a machine is something to consider considering it's primary purpose as a mower. Rear gauge wheels on 42" decks are pretty much there for cosmetics unless you are mowing a serious washboard of a front yard, and then the terrain is likely to tear any of these relatively fragile mower decks to shreds anyhow with the gauge wheel mounting brackets usually succumbing first. What makes them better? In my eyes it's the number of these units that are STILL out there running 12 years after they hit the market. They exceeded my expectations as we were told upfront that they were designed with a 7-10 year useful life with average use. Plenty of them wound up in the hands of ambitious homeowners who were undersold by HD/Lowes or worse yet, their dealer. They proceeded to kill them mowing 13 acres, and plowing snow all winter plus don't forget the giant cart used to haul the occasional load of topsoil, stone, or mulch if the machine was lucky. These machines died very early deaths, hardly making it past the warranty period and are largely responsible for the negative sentiments often expressed towards this series. Also, many replacement parts for these were actually cheaper and easier to replace than their MTD counterparts. Notable example being the mower spindles.
True that. The paint on one of these tractors in question actually IS better than most of the competition. But that doesn't sell tractors. I guess what bothers me the most about the Cub units is that, mechanically speaking, they really are not any better than similar units from the same manufacturer painted another color and priced differently. We all joke about green paint being so expensive but what makes yellow more expensive than red or black?
I have a 1995 MTD that is going strong. Has a Kohler engine. me buying cheap spindles and cutting grass 3x to high most of the summer is what is doing these units in I'm sure. The last two on the chute side have lasted half a season. The others lasted way longer. Need to buy an OE or oregon this next time. But other than us abusing it and eating spindles and the previous owner ripping the plastic hood off cause it was melting...and theres no wiring on this due to him...the mower still runs flawlessly. Wife loves it and the hydrostatic control on the fender. I try to take care of it though. And hope it will last many more years
I'm on the "unless your saving big money, go with a "name brand" If I were to stray from the well established colors, it would be the other orange - Kioti. They have been in the US long enough to pass the tommorow? test. Again, only if some substancial savings was involved. PS; get the bigger one and never look back!
FWIW, I went looking at the new Kioti's and found a sweet used Kubota L3710HST (only 860 hrs.). Bought it and starting to give it some workouts.
That is funny. What is different on the engines on the Deere that makes them so much better. Deere has had plenty of problems with the K46 hydro their self. There is a 23 page thread on the tractor forum on how to repair it. The frames on the XT1 Cub Cadet are fully welded. It is all features that make the machine better and it helps to sell the machine. On the new XT1 it is 2'' better. On the older models like the LTX1050 it was 12'', 6'' better than Deere. When is it necessarey to have 4 gauge wheels and a center antiscalp wheel? The more gauge wheels you have the more even cut you are going to get and less scalping. These are machines for the homeowner. They probably see an average of 20 hours of use a year. In 10 years that would be 200 hours. It looks like spindles are close in price. http://www.amazon.com/Stens-285-851-Spindle-Assembly/dp/B009S99Q1S http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1YHZAHRDZDGQQDKFA8JM There are actually quite a few differences. The troy bilt is an economy tractor. It has a cheaper seat, less or no gauge wheels. Some models are not hydro. Some hydro models have a fender operated hydro. They have less power. Some troybilts are splash lubricated.
My wife rather have fender hydro than the pedal??? Don't ask me why? And on engines the engine is the only thing that usually is any good on these things later in life. The decks on the stamped models rip apart or rust out long before the engine is trashed usually.
On machines that were working well above their pay grade, yes. All K46's are not created equal either. My LT180 has the dreaded K46 trans. Pulls a yard cart, mows 2 acres on a substantial hillside and runs a 42" snowblower attachment in the winter. That machine is now 13 years old and still running strong with about 500 hours on the clock. An I guarantee you it isn't the same K46 they put under the Lightning platform machines. Glad to hear it. It only took them a decade to catch up. I should amend my statement to read that at the time they were brought to market, those box-store Deere's were well above the competition. Over a decade later, it looks like Cub may have a good competitor and Husqvarna has been doing well against the Deere's as well. All in all, it looks like you'd spend roughly $100 more on a Deere over it's equivalent Cub Cadet XT1-type machine. And the Lightning tractors are now riding 12-13 year old tech. But I'd have a hard time on coming up with any significant changes really. Maybe do 4 gauge wheels on the 42" deck (the 48" decks are already 4-wheelers) and tighten up turn radius a tad. And honestly, (and this applies to ALL lawn tractors, not just green ones) if the deck is leveled and adjusted properly (which is extremely rare on a new unit), the gauge wheels will have no effect on how "even" the cut is and rear gauge wheels only help out in certain instances. Plus, none of the machines in this price range have gauge wheel brackets that will stand up to any kind of rough terrain. Welding them things back on is probably one of the most frequent repairs to these units. Those are aftermarket replacements, albeit from quality vendors. But even the OEM parts are within about $10 of each other according to a quick google search. Pricing on the MTD part varies wildly from vendor to vendor.
Mike, lay under your tractor before you get into the woods, and look for filters, wires, hyd. lines, etc. that are exposed. This will give you an idea what's "down there" that you need to keep an eye out for. Filters are very important not to puncture and all of a sudden you are operating a michine with no or low oil in the engine or trans. You'd be suprised what havock a little 1" stick pointed in the perfect direction can do.
This is awesome advice! Talking from experience.. Or go buy KTAC, insurance and work the snot out of it!