Low Overnight Burns

I guess that's the glass gasket? Examine it to see if it looks like it is still in place and sealing well around the glass. A better pic from the back might help...

 

OK, I will take a photo of the inside of the door tomorrow.

 

The auto setback is unlatching around 400F measured with the stove thermometer in the location that it always sits; of course the temperature where the setback is located is (probably, as I can not measure) higher in temperature.

Here is a photo I "borrowed" from another site of the AAS (Automatic Air Setback)

 

Forget the pics.

More importantly, what did you discover with the droopy gasket????

 

At the moment nothing, I have the stove cruising; it is cold here tonight and may go below zero F. In the morning before reloading the stove I will check the gasket when the door is not so hot.

 

Hello, I have the summers heat 2400 made by englander, the auto air control feature is great its basically set it and forget it, once i get the fire going to the point where the kindling has lit the logs tou can pull the draft knob out all the way and turn it to the left, you can also do this with the knob halfway out if you want more air, as the fire gets hotter you can hear it click in stages and eventually closes and is ready for the long burn. With nice seasoned wood you should only see the secondary burn up top in the pipes above and the logs arent even burning. "Smart stove"

 

Seems like the flue temps would be low if I tried that plus the stove top temp would be too low to heat the house even overnight.

 

It seems to keep the temperatures properly; since I have been using the AAS, the glass is keeping clean so I would think the temperatures are in the right range.

 

You have thermometers, you should know

 

I usually do this at bedtime, so I am not monitoring the stove. I did state that it appears to be setting back when the STT is around 400F at the point where I measure using the magnetic stick thermometer.

 

That feature (AAS) on your stove does not do any controlling of the fire after the initial correction does it?

 

Little bit of crosstalk here.

 

No, what the AAS does is to fully open the damper so that the fire burns hot, burning off moisture and charring the wood. When the stove is hot enough, the AAS thermo spring thing releases the damper. After it releases it, the burn is controlled by the damper position; I have been pulling the damper completely out which is closing the damper the furthest. Then the burn is controlled by the damper position and the doghouse air flow.

 

Yep that is what I thought, you are getting burns (clean glass) because the setting it drops back to is hotter then what you were doing manually before?
Edit- I did not follow some of your earlier posts so I was wondering why you were having problems before.

 

Yes, I was not letting it burn long enough; the AAS makes it easy now. I am really liking this feature of the Madison from England Stove Works. The temp at when it cuts out can be adjusted by taking the back shield off and gaining access to the AAS; I read about that on that "other" forum.

 

That's great that it's working for you, I like the idea of not having to watch the stove so close in the beginning of a burn cycle.

 

Me too , I'd be using that auto setback on most full loads

 

You are right, And iv noticed you do lose some air flow when you set the auto air control so i only use the auto set after i have a nice bed of coals, i never use the auto during a fire after an ash cleanout because i feel it takes longer to reach the secondary burn and keep the higher temp without the coals. My home is 2500 sq feet and im crackin windows, its hot all night and a good bed of coals in the am. This stove has a 3 cubic foot box and i load it up with 22 inch logs. Hope this makes sense