You sound like a welder already… always looking at old steel trying to come up with something to build…
I didn't read the whole thread but if you didn't already modify the stroke on your cylinder these might work and they are cheap. http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...ory_rn=&top_category=&urlLangId=&cm_vc=-10005
I bought those last year and they were too small for the cylinder. And after some discussion they really should be removed for storage so you can retract the cylinder all the way to avoid pitting. Another mod I plan on doing but haven't done yet is to drill holes in the log stop and put a pin in there to stop the cylinder. This could be quickly removed for storage or longer splits and would work well to stop the wedge at the desired distance.
I just bought a set from NAPA of all places that fits my 28 ton Huskee that has a 1 3/4" cylinder and the whole set is perfect for the 18" or less size splits I need for my stove. This is going to save me some time now that I won't have to measure, if it doesn't fit I will toss it aside until I am ready to deal with the long ones.
Here is my first creation with my new welder... Don't look to closely at the welds. Some are bad, most are awful. And where I welded the table to the beam it's terrible. But I got it to stick together enough for me to stand on the end of it without breaking and then added some more 'welds'. I'm not sure I will keep the uprights or not. Left them pinned so I could reverse them to act as a log stop when I add the log lift or just take them off if they are in the way.
That's great Mike!! And bearings on your hinge points. Wow. You'll be grinning about your first welding project for years. Cool.
Thanks, Was going to do simple pipe hinges but figured for $15 it was worth using the bearing blocks. Allows me to unbolt the lift if I ever need to. Just got to order the hydraulic pieces and figure out mounting points for the cylinder.
So I couldn't decide which end to have the hitch... I plan to add a bogey wheel on the left side tongue. And a hinge so the tongue on the right that pivots up and down. Would make it easier to hook up on that side. Any suggestion on what to use for a pivot/hinge on the tongue??
1 - cut the tubing leaving at least 3' for the hitch end. Then take a couple of pieces of 3/8" thick plate & weld one end of each to the tubing under the splitter on each side. Use a 3/4" diameter grade 8 bolt to bolt the tongue tube between the 2 pieces of plate to make the up/down pivot & you are ready to paint it.
That's pretty much what I was thinking. But the tongue is 2x3 1/8" tubing. So I was thinking I should reinforce it by putting some 1/4" or 1/8" 2" flat stock on the top and bottom. Would you reinforce the hole through the tubing by welding a piece of pipe inside of it and then bolting through the pipe?
Having a pipe bushing is a great idea. Make sure you have the pipe go all the way through the tubing & not just but up on the inside. Weld on the inside of the tubing to where you don't deform the end of the pipe & it will have greater strength by going through the tubing. Having the additional flat on top & bottom due to the thinness of the tubing would also help.
Yes, but on the sides, not the top and bottom. With the tongue that long it will be bouncy with a heavy log. Might even bend. Might be ok if you put the foot near the beam. With the log lift on the splitter, where does the operator stand?
Once I get the cylinder for the log lift I'm going to weld an attachment point to the beam and extend it down to the tongue to support the tongue. There will only be about 3' of tongue length between the jack and attachment point -- should be able to handle the weight without bending, I could weld some fish plates on the side of the tongue to help. Plenty of room to stand next to the lift. But I also plan to move the valve to the too of the cylinder so you can operate the splitter from either side.
Got the front wheels done. I cut the foot off a standard bull dog trailer jack. To get the tires to rotate I removed the indentation in the outer pipe. Now the lower piece rotates freely. Made the axle assembly out of some scrap pieces of pipe and flat stock. Tires were from harbor freight at $5.99 each