Let's design a smoke pipe setup

Good idea to keep the baro and foil it over...exactly what I do...it gets pulled off once in a while for high draft...some cold windy nights the draft goes through the roof for me...and those Yukons will go nuts with high draft since they are designed to run a low -0.03" WC draft. Do you have a manometer to monitor draft...I highly recommend it...many wood furnace guys mount 'em on the wall permanently hooked up...great diagnostic tool. I have some NOS Dwyer Mark II model 25 manometers if your are interested...make ya a deal on one.
On the liner...good idea...insulation is a very good idea too. The two ply...mmm...yeah, might want to research those...many well respected chimney pros hate 'em...I bought one, wish I wouldn't have spent the extra money one it...a standard single wall liner is just fine...if you want to go with better, get a HD single wall...something like 0.010" thick instead of 0.005".
The issue with 2 ply liner is the inner layer bends up when coiled for shipping and then will not lay flat again, creosote lays in there then. Also chimney brushes can pull the inner layer of wrap strips up too...kinda like going "against the grain" on fish scales

 

Thanks for the manometer deal but I have one already. I have considered getting the leveling mounting bracket though. The WC struggles to get to .03 when the stove is cold or idling but pulls nearly twice that when the fire or wind is going. So it would seem I could use more draft but more control over it too.

I will be getting another quote for the liner at least and research the two ply. He was also pretty sold on Ventis for doing smoke pipes, much preferred over Simpson Duravent products. He said the Simpson stuff gets mangled up too easily and gets hard to disassemble. $0.02

 

An insulated 6" liner will give you stronger draft when the stove is just getting going...and when idling...stronger all around. You can then control it via the baro...or I have been using a manual pipe damper...but those aren't technically legal on furnaces...baros are the best tool for the job...but they do cause flue cooling issues...and usually creosote