John Deere X300 Rebuild

And you can watch the video of replacing the seals with a timestamp here.

 

Like MasterMech said, be very careful installing the seals as they can be damaged easily. Been there done that . You are going to have a nice machine when finished and it should last you a very long time with proper care and regular maintenance.

 

I did inspect for oil leaks both before and after draining and filling. Since it was so low before the entire trannywas covered in oil so it was kind of hard to what was going on. After power washing and refilling the only issue I saw was the left axle. The motor only has 118 hours over 8 years so this did more sitting than cutting.

I picked up 2 gallon jugs of JD hygard since it was easily available and was also listed as the alternative to tufftorq's own brand of hydraulic oil. Cheaper too $36 vs $46.

Fan and pulley splies are a good snug fit. I put a little antiseize on there. Waiting for the seals, the plug, and a snap ring.

Now if I could only find my angles pick I'd be all set......

 

Yep I saw Taryl wrap the shaft with masking tape and lubricate the seal and just ease it on in there. I don't have the seal driver but I'll use the washer plus spacer plus wheels tappy tap method and then carefully tape the seal in with a chisel nice and easy to get it in a little further as per the video.

 

If I remember correctly I used an appropriate ID piece of PVC instead of buying a install tool. Yes, masking tape or electrical tape and lubricant is also a necessity, sorry I forgot to add that earlier. Best of luck. I really like rehabilitating these machines and getting them back to their former selves.

 

I believe '07.

 

Yeah that's totally different than what I'm familiar with.

 

The carburetor is not serviceable non removable float bowl type. I run the tractor at least twice a week all year always straight gas. It started sputtering when cold bad. Spark plugs read with bias. One side tan the other bank black. Compression was biased like 125 95 psi.

I took it to JD service JD service said they blew out the carb out, compression level and leak down test were in spec. Compression difference was not in spec but service declined to warranty. But that’s really it. It does run good and it’s easy to maintenance service

 

Well I got my snap ring kit today and plopped a new one on top of the tranny pulley and fan. M12. I tried the M14 and it seemed a little loosey goosey.

The seal kit should arrive tomorrow. Getting pretty excited!







View attachment 345338

 

While the oil dribbling out was not a huge waterfall, it was still pretty significant just sitting there. So I decided just to order the seals and plug.

Also regarding the hood - the design is terrible. It's literally held in by 4 terribly small and unreinforced molded stems and being that it is made of plastic, expensive or not, it's just not going to hold. Now in this particular case, I would say I'm pretty sure the PO's kids was driving it and ran into something as there was a huge mark on top of the hood. Probably not going fast enough to crack the hood but fast enough to break those super weak stems. Not one of them was intact - the 4 for the hood to the hinge and the 4 to hold the grill to the hinge.

I'm gonna use 3M DP420NS dual cartridge epoxy - the NS stands for Non-Sag which I find amusing but useful. I think I can put a nice bead in between the grill and the hood and also the flimsy black plastic side pieces of the hood.....That will hold that together and the plastic will crack before the epoxy gives out.

I can try reattaching the 3 out of the 4 stems of the grill as well as the hood to hinge stems that broke off with the same epoxy and see if that holds. I think it might. This stuff is really strong. I used it to repair manual pole saw ferrules that kept moving and ruining carbon fiber poles because of the poor one bolt design. I did 17 or 18 of them and they have had zero issues with them.

And it looks like there are plenty of other people with the same issue.

Found another JD money saving problem on the X500

John Deere Lawn Tractor Hood Repair

 

Ok I got the x300 moving again! I was gonna make a longer, more detailed video except my entire family just came down with Covid so that sucks.

The day before it hit me hard I spent about 3 hours taking the old seals off on both axles, cleaning up the rust on the axles, and filling it with the fluid I drained from the other day after discovering the leak. New fill plug, and while putting it back together I learned my lesson about fishing that free wheeling rod lever in first........because I put it all back together and then had to undo everything because I forgot about that part.

Anyways, here's the first ride with the tranny back together. I haven't had a chance to ride it again but will have to see what's what regarding the jerkiness when letting go or pressing either pedal. I hope the gears are ok but we shall see.

I heard a slight grinding noise (not good!) when I first hit the pedal gently. I think you can hear it in the video.

 

Thanks. I took it out for a joyride - couldn't resist - and it seemed pretty smooth. I think I just hit the pedals a little hard having never driven a hydrostatic transmission before.

Went around the house then around my garden a few times. Still pretty darn exciting! I'll keep an eye on the pedals and shock. Thanks.

 

Loved that vid! The excitement after a big job like that is hard to beat! Awesome work sir.

 

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Pretty satisfying indeed!

 

I've never sharpened lawn mower blades before but these had taken a bit of a hit. I probably sharpened them too sharp but that's alright. I did balance them on a socket and because I did it by hand with a bastard file it was pretty balanced.

I also greased the two zerk fittings for the main pulleys on the mower deck. Luckily I was able to spin the nuts off with my Makita 18v cordless impact. Had soaked it in PB Blaster for a few days while sick.

I only saw a tiny bit of grease come out but I sure was pumping away.

Also going to change the oil filter just because. And since there was almost no oil in the engine when I got it, I'll probably do that sooner rather than later and then mow the 12sq ft of grass I have lmfao. I may be tempted to offer to mow my neighbor's lawn for free just as a test hahahaha.

 

Reinstalled the blades, leveled the deck as best I could (my flat parking spot is not perfectly flat but close enough I guess), engaged PTO and went about 30 feet. Forgot to lower the deck, engaged PTO, smelled burning rubber. Returned to parking deck.

When I reattached the drive belt I must have slipped off the pulley that has the cover on it because that cover blocks your view. Thankfully I did not trash the belt but I surely shortened its life lmfao.

I had set the deck height to 1.5" and adjusted the roller wheels appropriately but in hindsight that was a little aggressive. Looks like I shaved the lawn lmfao. I did scalp it in a few spots, the most noticeable was an old stump that was almost gone but not quite. No big deal.

I need a string trimmer now because obviously the machine can only get so much. I filmed it as well and will edit the footage but for now pics will do.

Pretty darn excited!

My neighbor across the road said I could mow his lawn to test out the tractor but I'll have to get the string trimmer before I do that.

There were two holes in the lawn. Almost snapped my leg in half when my foot fell in! Filled it with unprocessed compost.

Put a little antiseize on the roller wheel bolts as well as the bolts for the pulley cover.

Anyone remove that black plastic chute on the right side of the mower deck? It just seems to get in the way and I can't see my edge like I can on the left.

That little strip of grass is not flat by any means.

Oh yeah and one pulley the grease did come out the other side finally but the other one I think is blocked. I tried heating it up but that just melted the grease and did not free up the clog. I just ended up using an Oregon chainsaw grease tool and pushed it in from the underside to make sure I got some lube up in there. I'm not sure how to remove that zerk fitting - looks like it is built into the nut?