No control arms are seperate. Every manufacture calls stuff a bit different. Ford calls them radius arms I think? They go from the rear of the axle and hook to the body, thats how they do on the jeep I know
Couple blips with a good impact gun. The "exact" torque on it isn't very critical. Clemson... Yes control arms. Radius arms are similar but not the same.
Just found this post and was going to suggest direct connecting the fan to the battery.. Had one go on an old Buick on way to camping this time of year years ago.. The car would get hot if stopped so while in line at toll booths we kept shutting off engine until we could keep moving where fan is not needed.. Made it 225 miles doing that.. Had it repaired near campground.. Ray
Ok, it won't hold my edit... Argh! Impossible to tell noise without hearing it or more details! The unit bearings are an easy job, 30-45 mins if you take your time to drink a beer or three.
Well my write up isn't in a sticky I had mine off 3 times doing U joints and then replacing the hubs , The best way that worked for me was this, to keep from turning while torqueing. Torque specs are critical
Firm believer in following torque specs. Manufacturer knows more than I do. 175 is very high, until you start thinking about what it's doing. My brother still thinks it's ok to get lug nuts tight by looking at 'em sternly. I use a torque wrench.
Lug nuts really are torque sensitive. Unevenly tightened lugs can result in wheel and rotor warping. First thing I do after getting a vehicle back from the tire shop is break all the nuts loose and hit 'em with the torque wrench.
HDR this looks sticky worthy to me.. Post this in the right place here and I will see if I can make it a sticky.. Ray
That's exactly what I do. I've asked the local guy if he uses a torque wrench and he swears he does........after using an impact gun. Is it possible to adjust one of those to give an accurate torque setting? From my experience, every lug nut is a different tightness when I get home. Luckily, he's only about a mile from home, and I don't hit the brakes much until I hit the driveway.
There are torque specs for EVERY bolt, just 99% of them you can just use common sense. I'm not sure why it would need to be a sticky? How many folks on here actually need this info and aren't searching on a Jeep or Dodge forum?
Yeah, lots of good info over on JF for this kind of stuff. Other places too. Remind me never to have you work on my car nate. No offense meant, but you can't just wing it when tightening down head bolts or connecting rod caps or .....well, lots of stuff. Maybe those are part of the one percent?
Even professional mechanics fall into the trap of thinking that a torque wrench is a device used to make sure a fastener is tight enough, rather than tightened to spec. Others use the Torque Sticks, they look like colored extensions on their impact gun. Each color only allows tightening to a certain torque range. It's better than going by ear or feel, and probably fine for a production shop environment(for lug nuts, not head bolts!) but not good enough for my OCD. Determining how tight a fastener was by breakaway torque is a crapshoot at best as well. Too many variables involved. The only way to be sure is to break it loose and re-Torq to spec. Of course, the tool (torque wrench) is only as good as the operator. There are a few different types, including deflected beam, "click", and dial type wrenches. The Click type is my recommendation for a "cheap" wrench but even that can be mis-used. You must stop applying force as soon as the wrench "gives" or else you can/will over-torque. Only a few very expensive dial-type or digital (mine are digital, lol) wrenches will actually tell you what you torqued the fastener to rather than just indicating when to stop. Oh yeah, if that torque wrench has been rolling around in your toolbox for twenty some years, it's probably not as accurate as it should be. Tools used in critical applications should be re-calibrated every so often. Also, click type wrenches should be "exercised" a few times before using them as any oxidation on the contact surfaces will throw the wrench off.
Pneumatic tools can be set for torque accuracy In the assembly plant pneumatic tools and manual wrenches are checked for accuracy at least once a week, some are checked everyday. Some torque specs are checked 100 again by an inspector. There is a lot behind why torque specs are what they are
They make torque sticks that are for impacts that like.it torque to say 100 ft pounds give or take there are sets for different torques
3x at 25% and 3x at 50% is what we had to do where I worked. (build and maintained bombs, missiles, countermeasures, etc) Stuff like AIM-9L/M, AIM-9X, AIM-120, AIM-7, MK82.83,84 systems (LGBs, JDAMs, GBUs, AGMs, etc), CBU-87s 89s, SDB (GBU-39), etc, etc. I spent 13 years doing that as well as worked as an auto tech and heavy truck/equipment tech (went to school for both)... I have a "little" experience and I'm not just pulling info put of my azz. Also could only use a wrench in the mid range of it's readings. Over bottom 20% and under top 10%. So a 0-100 ft/lbs would be good for doing fasteners that needed 20-90 ft/lbs. Under or over would not be in cal. Most our stuff was cal'd to +-5%, some was 3%. That torque wrench that's been rolling around your box for years more than likely is off. I've had some that just dropping on the floor made it not able to hold calibrated and had to be round filed. One that was bad was 1800 ft/lbs ones we had. Heavy to where you needed 2-3 people to use it (had a 6ft long handle) Had MANY brand new out of the box wrenches that didn't meet cal. I remember buying Five 0-1000in/lbs 3/8" drives from Snap On. Came with the papers that they were good to go, but we had to put them in PMEL (cal lab) anyhow. NONE were correct out of the box and only 2 were able to be calibrated. It took about 1/2 a dozen shipments to end up with 5 good ones. Then when the annual cal came around next time, 2 of them failed and were junk! Pretty bad for $300 a piece units! We had better luck with the $50 Craftsman units. They were usually good or close right off the shelf and lasted years. Matco/Proto, Armstrong, Wright, couple others I can't thinkg of. Just FYI, $$$ doesn't mean it's good! Anyhow that's my rant I guess.
They are a rough guess at best though. I'd say +- 20ft/lbs area. About the best way to make it reliable is to use a dedicated impact gun on each stick and have it dialed in to a pretty exact air pressure. I worked in a shop that used them for tires and rechecked after with a torque wrench. I never did have a tire come loose. Guess that was good, some days I'd do tires on 5-6 cars an hour
I had no idea torque wrenches could be so inaccurate. Maybe I'll go back to using a 4 way on the wheels.
