In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

I've got a question for BK owners

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by papadave, Dec 1, 2013.

  1. papadave

    papadave

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    Right where I want to be.
    The hope is that with the new stove, I can keep the house from getting too warm by controlling the stove much better, then let it run as long as it wants.
    Old stove wants to run up to 600 (and more) whether there's 3 splits or 6.
    New stove........from what you guys say, stove can run much less hot (I didn't want to say cooler when talking about a stove). floorplanredo.jpg
    8 splits in the stove overnight, woke to the house @virtually 70, but the outside temp was still around 32, so not too tough for the old stove.
    Still, better than it was before insulation and sealing.
     
  2. papadave

    papadave

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    Wow, that didn't work as planned.
    That's the house layout, and not to scale, but gives a sense of what I'm working with.
    The wall between the living room and kitchen is a halfwall, so that whole section allows airflow.
    The small bedroom across from the stove room is kept closed most of the time (wife's sewing room), and it's less than 100ft2.
    Not shown is a small window in the wall (old outside wall) between the kitchen and "new bedroom", which allows air through as long as I keep the laundry room doors open, but that room stays in the low 60's and sometimes cooler.
    Stove is directly to the left of the "s" in stoveroom.
    Kitchen, laundry, bath, and util. rooms are all on a small crawl...uninsulated. The rest is slab with exposed block outside. Lose quite a bit of heat there.
    It's not a 2x wide or a manufactured home.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2013
  3. papadave

    papadave

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    Nothing in the manual about this that I could find, but can the CTC's be reduced by using double wall stovepipe?
    I have 11.5 inches from the c/l of stove pipe to brick wall, then 3.5 of brick, then about 3/4" air space, then 1/2" drywall on studs.
    Center of pipe to combustibles needs to be 16.375".
    Sirocco 20 only needs 15.5".
    Someone talk me down.....:rofl: :lol:
     
  4. Machria

    Machria

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    Why not put the stove in the Livin room?
     
  5. bogydave

    bogydave

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    New stove sholuld have a tremendously better temperature control. :)
     
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  6. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR

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    Well, it can't be any worse than what he's dealing with.
     
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  7. papadave

    papadave

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    Yeah, I've suggested that to the boss, but she doesn't like the idea where I wanted it to go.
    I could pull the wall furnace, and use that wall, but the stove would stick way out into the room. Few good choices here w/o rebuilding something....which I could do.......but I don't need another big project.
    Thanks for that though.
     
  8. bogydave

    bogydave

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    Near 30 years of new technology !
    Old stove is like a B&W TV. They've made some improvements since then LOL :)
     
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  9. papadave

    papadave

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    Ok, now you're just makin' fun of the guy with the old stove.:(
    Had a conversation with someone yesterday about a new stove and how much less work it should be.
    I won't know what to do with all the free time.:rofl: :lol::thumbs:
     
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  10. papadave

    papadave

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    Another question for those who have the convection deck/blower.
    Is this a worthwhile addition?
    I have an air purifier blowing on low into the stove room to create airflow (and clean the air), but this tends to bring cool air along the floor through the house.
    That's the point, but it can be a bit uncomfortable at times.
    Just wondering if the deck will move more air. It's been a while since I had the blower on the stove.
     
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  11. rdust

    rdust

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    I bought the deck for my Princess, I've burned it with and without and I can't really say I've noticed a big difference one way or the other. For 100 bucks I figure it was worth it.
     
  12. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    I made one for the King out of 14g. sheet. The difference is not huge, but noticeable in my corner install.
     
  13. bogydave

    bogydave

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    I like the variable speed fans.
    Are part of my temperature control.
    Rheostat fan control at bottom.
    [​IMG]

    Have a filtered fan for moving heat up from the basement.
    My hillbilly filtered/forced air fan. :)
    DSCF2095.JPG

    When I bought, I almost didn't get the fans,
    then I thought why stop short & not get the stove set up the way it's designed.
    I do that sometimes , to save a few $$, then end up back there buying what I wanted in the first place.
    Am real glad I got them . I've used them a lot.
    Probably runs more with the fans than without.
    More evenly heated basement when they're running.

    You may not need them, might work well, won't know unless you have them to try.
    But then again, you can be added later.

    My house is set up a lot different.
    They work well for me.
     

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  14. SolarandWood

    SolarandWood

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    With the fans, I can move a load of wood in about 2/3 the time. For me, that's turning 125 lbs of wood into heat in a 12 hour burn cycle. May seem like a lot, but sometimes you need it.
     
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  15. bogydave

    bogydave

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    +1
    Good point
    When you really need to warm the place up, fans make all the difference.
     
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  16. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    Gotta ask- when you're running hard, what are the Cat temps, with the fans going? I'm wondering what the actual Cat temps are, vs. the gauge reading with the fans blowing air over it? And how hot can they actually run before you get to the degradation stage?
     
  17. rdust

    rdust

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    I'm in the "who cares" what the cat temps are camp! The fans obviously make the probe read cooler than the cat really is, I think I remember reading in the manual to shut the fans off for 10 minutes?? before reading the cat temp. It'd be pretty easy to build a shield around the cat probe but even with that who knows how accurate it is since the radiating stove top temp will also influence it some. For me I don't use the probe for anything more than knowing when to engage the cat.

    I'm on my third season and the cat seems fine. If I had to I'd replace it ever year out of pocket without blinking since the stove burns so nice.
     
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  18. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR

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    Once I got past judging the heat based on stove top temps, the fan really makes a difference with the 30. Would be nice if the 30 had a Rheostat fan.
     
  19. bogydave

    bogydave

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    Mine don't show temp
    image.jpg
    When on 3 cranking with blowers
    3/4 into the active zone

    I had it near pegged when burning a load of limbs 1" to 3" , max open on stat.
    With big splits hard to get it to max out, not sure I can.
    But I try to never leave the stove without setting it down to 3 or less.

    Pic is just now, Hot coals from last night's load still putting out good heat
    For our 33° OAT now. House 74°, to warm, but wife likes it.
    24 hour burns easy at these temps.
     
  20. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    rdust, I'm going into my 4th year? with this stove. Outside of gaskets, the combuster is the only thing I consider a "consumable" item. Just curious what abuse they can actually handle before it's time to replace them? I try to not go above 1700 constant, with the fans going.
    edit- My stove top rarely hits 550. I'd love to go 600+ , but the Cat disagrees with me.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2013