It takes two hands to operate my stove door

By the way folks, if you go back to the beginning I did not know about the hinges when I started this thread. I only saw that today when I happened to be by the side of the stove. I posted the photos of the hinges to illustrate that I had found the issue. This is no longer about the damper knob itself but the wrong placement of the hinges. I do appreciate everyone's help. However, with the hinges being on wrong, no, I don't want to start grinding here and there to try and fix this; the hinges need to be repaired properly and that means taking the stove to a shop. I wish I had seen this back in the warmer weather days but it is what it is.

 

Yes, they sure can be at times.

 

Yes, that might address the issue of the door hitting the knob but this thread is no longer just about that, it is about the door actually just hanging off the top hinge; yes, the pin is helping with the bottom hinge but really, there is more stress on the top door part of the hinge because it is now taking more weight when the door is opened. The thread is now about the hinges not being on the stove in the correct place.

 

I only looked at the sliding mechanism. No idea about the rest of the stove.

 

At first it was about the stove damper knob and there were suggestions that might have helped there; like attaching a rod to the top of the current rod. However, this is now about the hinges and seriously, the correct fix for the hinges is not grinding them smaller; that is not the proper fix. The proper fix is removing the hinges and placing them in the correct position; don't you agree YopperDave? To do that is beyond my skill level so that means a shop. It also means talking to my sister and BIL and seeing when they would be able to come and help me take the stove to a shop. Do I want this issue, of course not, I want to sit in front of my stove watching the fire and enjoying a tasty beverage.

 

OK, thanks. I wanted to get by a local Lowe's that had the Madison 02 in stock when I first started looking at stoves. However, they might not have them now.

 

First of all, I do appreciate the help from you guys. Yes, these are good suggestions perhaps when it was just about the damper knob. However, this is now about the hinges not being on in the correct position. I do reject any idea about grinding away metal either on the door side of the hinge or the stove side of the hinge. What I do accept is that the hinge will need to be removed and welded in the correct spot. Once that has been corrected, then we can see if the damper knob issue is no longer a problem. To fix the hinge problem the stove will need to be taken to a stop where it can be done professionally; I don't have the skills for this job.

 

Yes, but I love them all the same; even YopperDave .

 

Wow, that is serious overkill! And no more "right" than the suggestion to do a little grinding on the hinges!

 

Not a little grinding dear, a lot of grinding, and then the hinge will be "shorter" and I will hate looking at the stove. No, the hinge has to be moved in the correct place and there is no right way to do that but remove it and weld it back.

 

It is like the Madison thread with the wrong size hinges over in that unmentionable forum; to fix that issue meant removing the hinges and put the correct ones on.

 

And think about it, the majority of the work is in getting the stove to the shop. If my friend had not been murdered by that sack of chit he would have been able to do this; he was great at welding. A good shop can grind that hinge off and remount it in short order.

 

You will seriously regret attempting to move those hinges, don't do it! It will not be the flawless fix you envision, but grinding them a little is pretty close to that.

 

I heat my garage with wood. I enjoy tasty beverages out there too. Here's what I'd do...
Fill a glass with ice, mix up said toddy, sample toddy, acquire a piece of pipe or conduit slightly larger than the rod, sample toddy again, bend the rod up ever so slightly, sample toddy, bend rod a lil more cuz you didn't quite get it right the first time, re sample toddy, kick yourself in the arse for ruining that perfectly fine spring handle, re sample toddy. Now refill your glass, and twist on the new replacement spring you already bought at Lowe's. And then I'd sample the toddy again, and stare at your perfectly functioning woodstove. All the while realizing that you fixed your stove yourself and are well into your 2nd drink and did it all in about 10 minutes.

 

OK, that takes care of the damper rod; and I have a replacement spring knob because they ship both a chrome one and one with a colour brass look that rubs off. I was going to replace with the chrome one anyway.
Now, you need to make another drink because now it is time to correct the hinge problem.

 

If it were me- I would consider bending the rod a bit and putting a washer in the gap before moving the hinge.

 

You recently switched the door out, right? Did the old door make contact like the new one does? Did the old door have the gap you have now?

Fwiw, a grinder IS the way to fix this imo. Removing stove, reweld, repaint, reinstall, is gonna be way too much work for less than a quarter inch of material that needs to dissappear.

 

Beat me to it...was gonna say bend the rod, shim the bottom hinge.
Grinding anything would mean removing the stove...unless she has access to a pile of welding blankets to shield the sparks, which I doubt. I have done some welding on my stove right in the living room...but it was inside the stove where I could control the sparks...oh, and did some welding on the furnace in the basement one time too, but that is all concrete... even I wouldn't fire up the grinder in the house.

 

Don't confuse her with the facts guys...........................her mind is already made up.