Damski, a fungus factory. Was there a void under the window allowing cold air in, or is it just the aluminum frames that were that cold and condensing with the room air? Good catch on the gap btw. You just never know.
It's the frames. They just get so darn cold, then the warm room air condenses, freezes, thaws, and ....well, see pic. There may be fungi among I. Drying right now, and I'll keep that going for a while.
Aluminum window frames were bad for condensation and forming ice on them. We finally have gotten rid of all ours and went to vinyl frames.
WW, that's the plan here too. All the rest of the windows are wood, but single pane with storms. I'd like to change all of them at some point, but these are 1st priority.
Tried a temp fix on this that helped, but still had some leakage, so I put up a slightly oversized piece of faced fg up there. I also used foil tape on the seams for this. I'll check it again in a couple days. If it's better, I'll do a permanent fix following the temp one, but with a piece cut to fit better. The saga continues. I've decided not to do too much more (other than insulating things) until I can get new windows installed. Then, I'll finish off the rest. I'm going to need to rebuild at least one of the window sill frames.....I haven't pulled any of the others yet.
Well, that seems to have worked. We got about 3" of snow last night and there is no melting in that spot on the roof anymore, which means no more warm air leakage. I love it when a plan comes together. I think I may end up building some frames for the windows with the shrink plastic on them. If I put in some stop material with weatherstriping, it should keep the frames from condensing next year. Time for a Kreg jig. I've got a biscuit joiner (actually have 2), but the Kreg would be quicker, and besides, I'm always up for a new tool. This is much less expensive than 5 new windows, and will be temporary.
Finally got around to setting up a Youtube channel to upload a short vid I took of the gap between the sheathing boards and walls studs. Could this be considered an OAK?
Oh yeah, already done. As soon as I found it and took the pics and vid. LOTS of cold coming in there.
Hello Dave Here is my story. I have a split Entry home built in 1962 A. Save heat in winter by insulating Attic Floor better and closing up gable vents Pic 1. Rip 2x4s down to create 2x2s and nail them to the 2x4s. Remove OLD R7 Stamped ECONOMY Owen Cornings Fiberglass Paper Faced Insulations Pic 1. Air seal all holes with Can Foam Roll down Reflectix Foil R3.9 then roll down R19 Fiberglass Paper Faced Insulation on top of Foil Pic 2. Criss Cross with Unfaced R30 Fiberglass insulation for a tolal of R53 in floor! Pic 3. Since I now have a Ridge Vent and Soffit Strip vent I built doors to close gable vents in Winter Also insulate and foil Gable Vent End Walls for better insulation. amazing now by doing tha the paint never peels in the outside triangle where gable vent is because there is no extreeme temp diff between inside and outside!! Saves a tremendous amount of heat being sucked out of the house from cold winter winds blowing in!! B. Save Air Conditioning cost in summer by reflecting heat and keeping cool in! Pic 4. Staple Rafter vents from soffit all the way up to ridge vent to maintain cool roof! Pic 5. Staple Reflectix foil over rafter vents to keep whole house 10 Degrees cooler in summer Only need air conditioning if too humind now, never gets too hot!! Open Gable vent doors for additional cooling!! End result Big $avings in summer and winter!!
