In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Installation of Summers Heat 2000 Sq.Ft. Pellet Stove - 55-SHPAH.

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by Gasifier, Oct 19, 2013.

  1. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    Here's the tape I use:

    http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-HTP-1...&qid=1382236070&sr=8-2&keywords=silicone+tape

    As long as you followed the manual for minimum clearances, you are good to go. The way my setup is, I'm further away than minimum. The back and sides don't really get all that hot.
     
  2. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    Thank god! lol
     
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  3. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    No need for silicone outside..

    As for clearances.. If the minimum is met? Then that's all you need.

    Congrats and when can we talk stats?
     
  4. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Well it is not ready to burn yet.
    I still need to:

    Vent the outside air intake.
    Caulk everything outside around the cover plate for the thimble.
    Attach mounting bracket that holds chimney.
    Put the chimney together going up and put cap on.

    Oh. Forgot to ask you guys a couple other questions. The "receiver" for the first piece that goes on the back of the stove outlet (which is the adaptor) has a pretty thick wall on it. I know the manual says to not use screws longer than 1/4" because you do not want to breach inside of pipe at all. Is that "receiver" wall fairly soft? It looks pretty stout. Wondering if the self tappers go into it that easy. So I need 3 self tappers there. Do you guys use self tappers anywhere else to hold chimney together? It is all twist lock. Seems to be pretty tight when done. I am thinking of wind outside as well. They give one bracket in kit and say to put that on right above clean out T. Makes sense. It comes out to fit nice and I will attach tonight. But I am going to go up with all the pipe they gave me. I should probably put another bracket higher up I would think. So the wind does not push the pipe with that big cap on it.
     
  5. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    Just to be clear, this is where you need to silicone and then screw:

    pipe.jpg
     
  6. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear

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    Don't forget to seal around the vent pipe on the outside where it exits the thimble. You have a ring around that vent pipe that is open to both the inside and outside of your camp through which smoke can pass back into the camp.
     
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  7. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    I have silicone tape around the joints that I take apart to clean and foil tape around the ones that I don't take apart and are basically permanent (just on the inside of the house). And yes, where the self tappers go, that wall is on the thicker side. I don't have anything else screwed together.
     
  8. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Thank you to all for the guidance. I will take some more pics. It is unfortunate that you have to put another hole through the wall for outside air intake. But the manual says it MUST be done. I am thinking that in a well insulated small place you would not want to be taking the oxygen out of the space. But in my larger camp with plenty of air leaks it would seem you could take the air intake off the floor of the camp. Oh well, I will do what they say.
     
  9. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Yes. Should be interesting getting a screw in there! LOFL
     
  10. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    There have been a gagillion discussions on OAK's...Englander requires it....IMO, I would install one even if it wasn't required because you would just be pulling heated air out of your living space and sending it outside...just doesn't make sense to me. Oh yeah, good luck with those screws...lol Might be easier if you pre-drilled with a small bit then send them home!
     
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  11. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear

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    Pilot holes just large enough to start the point of the screw in, then use a small dab of silicone to hold the screw on the tip of the screwdriver, or use a magnetic tipped screwdriver to start the screw with.
     
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  12. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Well, I understand your point of taking warm air out of living area. But I just think of how cold that air is from outside, let's say it is 10 degrees out at the time. Now you have that cold air coming in and cooling your unit only to be heated back up again. If you bring the air in from inside the camp off the floor the temperature would be whatever you have the living area at. In the case of someone who has it in there normal living at their house it might be 70 degrees in there. In my case the camp will only be kept at 45ish.
     
  13. jtakeman

    jtakeman Moderator

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    Is this the start of another great OAK debate? Gonna do a test one of these days to dispel yet another myth. But will save it for another thread and another day!
     
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  14. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear

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    I'm outta here.
     
  15. savemoney

    savemoney

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    Please, give me strength. :zip:
     
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  16. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    I am going to install the outside air intake. It will be done. However, I trust you guys know what is best. Is it the outside air intake, or is there some debate between the pros as well? We have discussed this same subject about our indoor wood gassification boilers intake air. I have mine taking air in from inside becaue it is in my basement. And all the cool air from the large house drops tothat floor area. There are also some drafts in this big house. And since I started this thread, I say let's hear your opinin on outside air intake now. Before I finish my installation of pellet stove! :popcorn:Let the games begin! Hurry, you only have a matter of hours until tonight gets here! OMG, the drama, help me.
     
  17. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    By the time that 10° air comes through the intake pipe (wams up), enters the back of the unit( wamer), and comes into the burn pot receptacle where its about to meet its death (pretty warm). That flame is aaveraging 1,500° so the difference between 68° inside air and 10° outside air? Really isn't much at all.

    The colder air is more dense and rich with oxygen. Aldo, as noted above, you can throw heated air out your exhaust, and drag cold air in from the farthest reaches of your camp (making it harder to heat, because your entire home is under negative pressure). Or you can run an OAK and keep the system a closed loop. Thereby keeping your home nuetral pressure and being able to take that heat a soread it back to the farthest reaches of the camp.

    Alright.... OAK. First time it's been discussed here and won't be the last.

    I have an OAK on everything I own. The last install I did on my new Enerzone, I used Selkirk DT venting. The O.D. is 6.5" (looks like wood stove pipe) and it draws the OAK air around the inner 4" exhaust. So you only have one hole and the intake air is preheated (not that this really matters, but on damp days, ash has been known to "Cake" a little more because of moisture).

    Just started painting the basement, so its hard to see the black OAK pipe against the Dark red paint.

    Thats what I should be doing now. Painting...I wanted a break! :)

    20131006_113721.jpg 20130923_200041.jpg 20131019_145614.jpg
     
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  18. savemoney

    savemoney

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    Well said, and by a professional anyone can trust!
     
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  19. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk

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    I guess the way I look at it is, at least in my case, the combustion blower is is rated for 120 cfm or so. You multiply that out in your living area and you are sending out air that you are trying to heat, or just heated, right out the vent. And somewhat quickly I might add! lol And you are now pulling cold air are from nooks and crannies in the house.

    ANOTHER GREAT OAK DEBATE!!! LOL :popcorn:
     
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  20. savemoney

    savemoney

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    You would never leave an exhaust fan running while the AC was on, so why would you run an exhaust when you are running the heat? That is what happens when you don't hitch up the OAK.
     
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